Recent content by MMIN

Have you looked further in from the axles to the 4wd disconnect/actuator assembly? Mine made a similar noise when it went out and was noticeably damaged from underneath.

Last time I got that light on was my 4th fan clutch about 2 hours from home, during work, on a sunday. Luckily the fan clutch grabbed the harness and shredded/shorted some of the wires together. Tape them up and all was well again. If you've done the fan clutch a bunch I would check that wiring...

Digging my intro back up.. 2/26/12 I was getting ready to hit 160k and 7/12/12 I hit 167k. Another 7k on the truck and I replaced 1 coil pack and as a gift to myself replaced the AC compressor which the clutch went bad maybe a year ago.. Air is back to ice cold! Still the original engine, trans...

Looks awesome man! My 20" were actually wider than my 22" and I miss that look. Nice pick!

Plus one on the double din, and plus one on the Pioneer. The biggest questions to ask are do you want bluetooth, and how picky are you about wires coming off the front of the unit? The Pioneer 4300/4400 would have the full size screen and rear connections that you could run into the console or...

Plus one on the double din, and plus one on the Pioneer. The biggest questions to ask are do you want bluetooth, and how picky are you about wires coming off the front of the unit? The Pioneer 4300/4400 would have the full size screen and rear connections that you could run into the console or...

I know they haven't been mentioned, but I run the K40 RL360 w/ diffusers in my truck and it's saved me a few times. Realistically the radar industry is one of the more corrupt I've seen. Majority of all reviews and tests you see about them are completely rigged. No radar company has technology...

The 2.5A is AFTER the truck has sat for a period of time, correct? From your list the IPC/DIC fuse looks to the biggest offender other than the radio and amp fuses which also are showing abnormally high draw.. Have you tried pulling just that fuse leaving all others in and seeing what changes...

I'm a still a little confused as to what your actually drawing as you posted some conflicting numbers. So let's start off with what we WANT to see - you should have ALL doors, liftgate, glass, etc closed and the meter set to dc amps interupting the ground lead on the battery. Hood open shouldn't...

Car Audio is almost dead but I own a small Mobile Electronics shop and we are busy as can be. We work with a lot of local car dealers and do retail as well. Don't schedule much for Saturday but today I put remote starters in a 2013 Mustang, a 2012 RAV4, and a JL amp in a F-350 among other...

Have you confirmed with a meter that you are presenting a 1 ohm load to the amp? If they are wired any other way you would be getting a lot less than 1200 watts and there wouldn't be a whole lot of difference from the amp you had. Going to 200 watts to 400 watts for example, if changing nothing...

Sounds like a lot of suggestions have been covered, but I will add one more thing to check. When you crank up the system are the subs moving together or opposite? ie pushing out and in at the same time, not one sub going in and the other out. If they appear to be in sync then you can forget it...

If you don't care about your chimes/rap/onstar/rear controls, then the harness they gave you is the correct one. For steering wheel controls you'll need the ASWC in addition to the harness you already have.

Sounds like the bypass either went bad or needs to be reprogrammed (was the battery disconnected recently..?) Since the vehicle is responding to the commands sounds like the main remote start module is OK but the bypass isn't finishing things off.. Most remote starters have very good warranties...

I closed the shop tomorrow so I'm still in and still bringing everything I'm on the list for. Little late on the plus 1 but I should have a buddy with me if he wakes up..