Recent content by xtremeskier97

Thanks so much for this info! Finally got around to fixing ours. I'm sure the kids will love it back there again.....and I can have my center vent back again! :wink:

No I didnt gap them. I just checked the gap to make sure it was still in spec. I havent looked at the motor mounts. Perhaps I should compression test first. I'm pretty sure I have a gauge. If not, my brother-in-law does.

I've never replaced that either. Where is that located?

My engine has been running rough already at idle. That is why I was going to replace the valve cover gasket (thought there was oil on the plugs). Turns out there isnt, so I didnt need to replace the gasket or disconnect the PCM. What else could be causing such a rough idle? Things I've...

I've been searching but cant seem to find the answer. If I'm just removing the PCM to replace the valve cover gasket, will I have to do any relearn after reinstalling it?

When you say the "fan speed control became erratic", are you referring to the knob on the console that allows the driver to control the rear air flow? If so, that is the exact same thing we are dealing with. First, the number 2 would only work for about 2 minutes then the air would shut off...

I'm about to do this tomorrow morning. I like the anti-seize tip. Definitely will use that! I've seen a post here or there mentioning thread direction. I just want to be completely clear on this so I'm not wasting my time going the wrong direction. Is it reverse thread or not on this fan...

Both were in the truck when I bought it almost a year ago. There was 107k miles on the truck when we got it and it has just under 126k on it now. The battery is a Autocraft Gold battery from AdvanceAuto. It has a small green sticker on the corner with the date 09/09, so it's about 3 years...

I was able to get to the starter wire. Looks good. Made sure it was tight also. So, reluctantly, I put everything back together making sure all had nice clean, tight connections. The following are the readings I took after doing so: 12.71-12.72 = Everything hooked back up with nothing on...

The only cable I cannot seem to get to is the positive to the starter. Could the starter be causing this?

This is what I was leaning towards too :( One of the guys at Autozone said that an alternator could test good every time you test it but still be bad.

I'd be better if there was video with it so we can see what you see and what you're moving past as the sound changes.

All terminals were clean and well attached. No corrosion at all. I just pulled every single fuse under the hood. All good. Bout to check all rear fuses. Thanks! OH, and when I got home last night I got my volt meter out before turning off the engine and tested across the battery. It was...

I sat there and watched it for several minutes and it never leaked again that I saw...BUT...seeings how it was wet on the side facing me (drivers side of truck), then I would assume that it's leaking at the seam.