02 Sensor info

[MoJoRisin']

I have the following codes and have ordered a new 02 Denso sensor

P0134 Bank 1 Sensor 1 no activity
P0171 Fuel Trim Bank 1 condition
P0430 cat efficiency low Bank2

About a month go I had it in for getting the CAT replaced and they found additional codes and recommended plugs and wires indicating that this may clear the CAT code along with the other codes (I also had missfire code at that time). After the plugs and wires were changed the missfire code was cleared but the codes above remained.

I'll be changing out the o2 sensor in a few days and wanted to confirm sensor location (left or right) and any recommendations regarding removal and install.

I'm thinking that the CAT issue might have been caused by the missfire - however I do not have the info on which side or cyl had the missfire.

BTW the old plugs were NGK which probably caused the issues. I got the new Trailblazer last FEB and I'm guessing they probably changed the oem plugs (Ford dealer) with NGKs not knowing that they may cause issues. New plugs are AC Delco irridiums and wires were the ones that were recommended on the Trailvoy site so that should all be good.

I also have a cold start tick which I am thinking may be clutchfan also rather than lifter tick. Any idea how I can further troubleshoot the tick?

 

[C-ya]

On a V engine, bank 1 is the odd numbered cylinder bank and bank 2 is the even numbered cylinder bank. Sensor 1 is the first sensor, nearest the engine, and sensor 2 is after the cat.

I have a little cold start tick in mine, too. Hasn't bothered me enough to localize - yet.

 

[MoJoRisin']

I'll check my owners manual for cyl numbers and then go from there. I'll be getting into this early next week.

Thanks!!

 

[C-ya]

Forgot to say welcome, my neighbor to the north!

 

[Denali n DOO]

I also have a cold start tick which I am thinking may be clutchfan also rather than lifter tick. Any idea how I can further troubleshoot the tick?

You could use one of those mechanic stethoscope to try and isolate the tick. I bought a set and used it to determine my belt squeal was the a/c belt and not the Serp or any of the serp pulleys. They work really well.

 

[RayVoy]

I'll be changing out the o2 sensor in a few days and wanted to confirm sensor location (left or right)

O2 sensors will get slow and eventually fail, I like to change them in pairs and I think the time to change them is when new plugs are due.

No activity could indicate the connector is off, or broken.

BTW the old plugs were NGK which probably caused the issues.

I believe, NGK makes the AC DELCO plugs.

 

[MoJoRisin']

SO - what is the trick to get to the connector on the B1 S1 position (driver side)? I jacked her up and it looks like the connector is about 1/2 way up the firewall and very difficult to get to - from both the bottom side and top side. Can somebody who has done one let us know how it is possible to first disconnect the connector and then connect a new one?

My brain says maybe unscrew the sensor and then pull the whole deal up from the topside and deal with the connection that way. Not sure if that is even possible but I'm throwing that out as a desperate chance. That or I will pay for someone to put it on a rack and change it and do it that way.

 

[BRomanJr]

SO - what is the trick to get to the connector on the B1 S1 position (driver side)? I jacked her up and it looks like the connector is about 1/2 way up the firewall and very difficult to get to - from both the bottom side and top side. Can somebody who has done one let us know how it is possible to first disconnect the connector and then connect a new one?

My brain says maybe unscrew the sensor and then pull the whole deal up from the topside and deal with the connection that way. Not sure if that is even possible but I'm throwing that out as a desperate chance. That or I will pay for someone to put it on a rack and change it and do it that way.

That is how I did it on the passenger side, unscrewed sensor, attached baling wire to the sensor then pulled it up and got to the connector. Changed the sensor, then used the bailing wire again to lower the new one down, applied anti-seize, put a couple back spin twists on the wiring then screwed it in.

Somehow, I was barely able to do the driver side from the bottom but the "fishing" method should work there too.

 

[MoJoRisin']

After deliberation I had a shop quote me removal and replacement with my supplied part ($50). Took it in and stayed there when they did the replacement. They dropped the driveshaft and attempted removal of the old sensor and got it about 50% out and it seized on him. He left the old one, redrilled and welded in a new fitting and put in the new one. Same price $50 for about 1 hr work plus welding in new fitting. In the end it appears I did the right thing by bringing it in.

 

[ALgndNMyOwnMnd]

After deliberation I had a shop quote me removal and replacement with my supplied part ($50). Took it in and stayed there when they did the replacement. They dropped the driveshaft and attempted removal of the old sensor and got it about 50% out and it seized on him. He left the old one, redrilled and welded in a new fitting and put in the new one. Same price $50 for about 1 hr work plus welding in new fitting. In the end it appears I did the right thing by bringing it in.

Thats not how I had hoped this thread would end