1st gear not working or.....

[tragicride]

I completely agree, and actually following up on what is asked to perform, while it doesn't necessarily apply to this thread, is important. There have been threads where tasks have been asked and no response was given until days later.

Props to the OP for following through and thoroughly checking everything again, and MAYO3 on rechecking the fuses.





This threw me off but good that this was pursued even further. Not bashing the OP but following through again was paramount, saved yourself some dough.


Good thing you didn't get messy and swap shift solenoid leads. That being me, I would not have thought at the time that a fuse would have caused the symptoms you described and I would have swapped solenoid leads since it was cheap and simple then went after the fuses. Learn something all the time with these vehicles and their complexity with the wiring.

This is a good thread, I learned something.

I was 15 mins away from swapping the shift solenoid. What a relieve wow

 

[blazinlow89]

Im just blowed away on the fuse. .. I looked at them all a few times over and so did another friend but like the Roadie says. Anyway its a hell of relief. Now for the Clutch-Fan

Glad you got it fixed. Also glad that a few of us are still linked to the TV facebook page to help get everyone the proper answers.

 

[MAY03LT]

I completely agree, and actually following up on what is asked to perform, while it doesn't necessarily apply to this thread, is important. There have been threads where tasks have been asked and no response was given until days later.

I was going to send you a pm but thought it would be more fitting to post this right here. Just to clarify, my last post about replacing the solenoid wasn't directed at post #4. I re-read the thread tonight to help put together a symptom list from fuse 47 being blown and noticed that swapping the solenoids had been recommended. I don't think you took it that way but just to be sure I had to say that.

And speaking of long reply times, worse is when we ask for results of a test and then they go elsewhere for instant "what part do I have to change to fix it" guesses. I think sometimes people think that we know all the answers and are taking them for a ride. But the reality is, if I had the OPs ride at my work or in my driveway, I'd have to do the same test on fuse 47 as a starting point.

And, tragicride, have fun replacing that clutch.

 

[gmcman]

I was 15 mins away from swapping the shift solenoid. What a relieve wow

Yeah I agree, glad you didn't....but it's not a huge project. Drop the pan and swap the leads....they are right there. Or just swap the solenoids..most time consuming part would be tightening all the pan bolts back.

I was going to send you a pm but thought it would be more fitting to post this right here. Just to clarify, my last post about replacing the solenoid wasn't directed at post #4. I re-read the thread tonight to help put together a symptom list from fuse 47 being blown and noticed that swapping the solenoids had been recommended. I don't think you took it that way but just to be sure I had to say that.

No, definitely didn't take it that way. Most logical was to check the fuses first, far less tranny fluid dripping this way. I went straight to the trans since it sounded like he just lost 1st, he didn't mention fuses until later. Nice recon on the fuse.

 

[chief0299]

Glad to hear you got it fixed. Hopefully the Mrs. isn't still considering trading it in.

 

[The_Roadie]

I bet she embraces the vehicle now, but she may be looking for a new diagnostician.

 

[RPJ 03 Envoy X]

In testing my Envoy rear block I found that the rear fuse 40 (TBC 10) Amp did not have continuity. So I pull it and it is blown. I wonder if it is related to me pulling the J Case fuse for my blower motor. I place a new one in there and it immediately blows. I take one more because I thought it was powered as I had the ignition in the on position. Turned the truck off and put another new one in and it immediately blows with the truck off. I am newer to the diagnostic stuff, so I did take some readings with the multimeter, but now I am confused. The ignition A and B are giving me negative high readings for the volts on my multimeter. I still have a truck in the limp mode and REP with CEL and I am not sure what to do. I have replaced the Throttle body with a used unit from LKQ, the pedal with a new Delco unit, and the ignition switch with a Delco ignition.

So my codes are

P1516 (command vs actual Throttle Position Performance TAC module)
P1515 (command vs actual Throttle Position Performance PCM)
P0740 (TCC solenoid circuit)
P0785 (shift/timing solenoid)
P1860 (TCC PWM solenoid ciruit)
Then the 1516 and P1515 repeat.

I am stuck and need to figure out how to diagnose the problem further. I am not able to be on here everyday as I work 2 jobs to take care of my 6 kids, so money is always a factor. Any technical help would be appreciated.

 

[IllogicTC]

fuses should not be checked visually.

I know it's an old post, but I have a question on this.

What reading should I be getting from this?

View attachment 32138

Thanks in advance.