Any special purging of air needed after replacing water pump?
- Thread starter c good
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Always... Especially on "Lost Foam" Cast Aluminum Engine Blocks and Cast Aluminum Engine Heads like those central to the designs of the LL8 4.2L Engines where the Coolant flows through the High Compression Head FIRST.
This Video covers the Universal Reasons and Universal Methods for doing this correctly. Not doing so will risk Air Voids to allow Air trapped inside that can Warp Engine Heads and cause Cylinder Head Gasket Leaks and Cracked Cylinder Liners if these Air Pockets are not properly eliminated. The Gear needed is CHEAP and Effective in doing this task:
This Video covers the Universal Reasons and Universal Methods for doing this correctly. Not doing so will risk Air Voids to allow Air trapped inside that can Warp Engine Heads and cause Cylinder Head Gasket Leaks and Cracked Cylinder Liners if these Air Pockets are not properly eliminated. The Gear needed is CHEAP and Effective in doing this task:
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I don't have one of those cooling system vacuum filler kits but if you do, that is the easiest most efficient way. I use a method that has worked for me, time and time again. Jack up the fill area, radiator or coolant reservoir, radiator in this example. Jack up the front end about 6 inches at least or put the front end up on ramps. Then, with engine not running, fill the coolant very slowly. when you get coolant showing up at the radiator neck, start the engine and turn heater on and let run for 2-3 minutes and then again, fill very slowly. When you see coolant again, set the vehicle level and top off if needed and make sure the thermostat opens. Then roadtest and recheck and add as needed.
When I did my 2005 Tahoe water pump, I followed this method and ran the right front tire up on a ramp.
When I did my 2005 Tahoe water pump, I followed this method and ran the right front tire up on a ramp.
And if you want to get a little fancy, get one of these funnels. Makes the filling and burping process much easier and less messy.