Cargo cover.

[MrDJ]

Well, here is what I have so far...

View attachment 16891

I started off with a 1.25" piece of dowel rod that was 49.5" long and drilled a 3/8" hold about 2 inches deep in both sides...
View attachment 16892

Then I added a 3" piece of all-thread to both sides and used silicon to seal it in place...
View attachment 16894

Here is a picture of the dowel rod in place in the back...
View attachment 16895
View attachment 16896

The whole thing is divided into 2 sections. Next, I plan to smooth out some of the cuts and talk to some places about getting it covered. I also plan to wire a white light under the cover against the wall because it is pretty dark on the bottom when the cover is on...

What do yall think?

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Well done!

 

[Black_tb]

looks good to me

 

[TexazReece]

Niiiiice

 

[TB2k4]

looks sweet man!, im looking to getting around to that- any measurements, tips, tricks so far?

 

[Regulator]

My width was specific to my two tool boxes so that they would fit snugly without sliding left to right. I also wanted the space on either side in order to still have room to slide misc. stuff in. On the drivers side is umbrella, ice scraper and jumper cables. on the passenger side is tow strap and other misc. recovery stuff.

The top platform sits snug to the back of the seat, which allows a bit of room at the floor level. Pictured here is a 500 watt converter that is hardwired into the rear fuse box power. I have a 3000 watt converter planned for the same area, I just haven't bothered to run power from the battery yet.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Reminds me I need to mount my invertor sometime.

 

[fishguy1123]

Might wanna thing about getting some rubber caps or dipping the all thread in some rubber tool stuff to protect the plastic.

 

[TB2k4]

Well, here is what I have so far...

View attachment 893

I started off with a 1.25" piece of dowel rod that was 49.5" long and drilled a 3/8" hold about 2 inches deep in both sides...
View attachment 894

Then I added a 3" piece of all-thread to both sides and used silicon to seal it in place...
View attachment 896

Here is a picture of the dowel rod in place in the back...
View attachment 897
View attachment 898

The whole thing is divided into 2 sections. Next, I plan to smooth out some of the cuts and talk to some places about getting it covered. I also plan to wire a white light under the cover against the wall because it is pretty dark on the bottom when the cover is on...

What do yall think?

I love it. You've inspired me to make this my New Years project. I like the dowel idea but how would you get one in to support the back... i dont have a sub there and i need to be able to poke skis through the flip down. i just want to cover up all of my gear. any solutions for the forward dowel/support.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Might wanna thing about getting some rubber caps or dipping the all thread in some rubber tool stuff to protect the plastic.

Definitely a good idea.

 

[djthumper]

Looks good!

 

[wiggles]

Well, here is what I have so far...

View attachment 893

I started off with a 1.25" piece of dowel rod that was 49.5" long and drilled a 3/8" hold about 2 inches deep in both sides...
View attachment 894

Then I added a 3" piece of all-thread to both sides and used silicon to seal it in place...
View attachment 896

Here is a picture of the dowel rod in place in the back...
View attachment 897
View attachment 898

The whole thing is divided into 2 sections. Next, I plan to smooth out some of the cuts and talk to some places about getting it covered. I also plan to wire a white light under the cover against the wall because it is pretty dark on the bottom when the cover is on...

What do yall think?

Looking damn good! I spoke with my local Kansas transportation board member (my father lol) and he made an excellent point about this mod. It really needs to be tied in to the dowel at the back and the front needs to be tied down as well some how. Just think about where that thing is going if you get in a head on. I was too excited to put too much thought into it. I'm going to do some on how to accomplish this. Having been in a headlight to headlight crash before I'm pretty motivated to make sure that thing wouldn't go anywhere.

I second dipping the ends in the tool handle stuff to protect the vehicle.

You may also consider adding some padding to the whole thing to try and dead'n the vibrations from the sub so you don't get the "I spent 2 grand on my system but couldn't pay for sound deadening to keep my trunk from rattling" effect.

I have one of those dog dividers for the back of my TB. I may just tie it into that and that will act as my rear legs, as well as hopefully keep anything like my laptop bag from coming up and taking off my head.

I'm also thinking I'm going to go with osb or mdf to build mine. I just feel it would be easier to cover, like speaker boxes are made.

 

[Ascender2004]

My width was specific to my two tool boxes so that they would fit snugly without sliding left to right. I also wanted the space on either side in order to still have room to slide misc. stuff in. On the drivers side is umbrella, ice scraper and jumper cables. on the passenger side is tow strap and other misc. recovery stuff.

The top platform sits snug to the back of the seat, which allows a bit of room at the floor level. Pictured here is a 500 watt converter that is hardwired into the rear fuse box power. I have a 3000 watt converter planned for the same area, I just haven't bothered to run power from the battery yet.

I made a similar one for my parents minivan. On one side of the rack was a series of bins that could be slid in and out like drawers. On the other half was a shelf that held a cooler. Because there was the rack on one side, only one side of the shelf would have to be supported.
Ill try to take some measurements tomorrow. I may have to modify it to fit in my truck

 

[TB2k4]

It really needs to be tied in to the dowel at the back and the front needs to be tied down as well some how.

I second dipping the ends in the tool handle stuff to protect the vehicle.

You may also consider adding some padding to the whole thing to try and dead'n the vibrations from the sub so you don't get the "I spent 2 grand on my system but couldn't pay for sound deadening to keep my trunk from rattling" effect.

1) i completely agree. i was thinking just a simple u shaped shackle going through the suspended board around the dowel holding it up- this would require holes but would be completely worth it.

2) third that motion. i was lucky enough to find some extra metal pegs with plastic ends for an exercise machine- i sanded them down and hammered them into the rear dowel.

3) the u shaped shackle might help with noise kill- making the whole thing have to act as one, heavy unit. but i was going to cover mine in carpet i found in the basement- just need to dye it black or dark to match the interior, and go for better looks.

for the rear dowel i used a wooden walking stick from my cub scout days, with two plastic capped metal pegs for the track. The board itself is gonna be 3/4" plywood sheet covered in carpet. and the frontward dowel im still thinking about....

Frontward dowel- i found an old shower curtain bar in the basement, i was thinking about using this because i could cap the ends, put it in place, extend it, then just duct tape it because it will just under the board... THOUGHTS??

what are your measurements? mine seem a bit off (big) but id rather start big and trim down than go too small.

*I am not a hoarder, i just simply possess many old pieces of "useless" stuff until i find a use for it. and yes i will be taking pictures- anyone wanna collab on an article if anyone isnt already doing it, or give me the go-ahead?

 

[Brian@work]

What if you used a modified turnbuckle to tighten the front dowel rod into place?

If you cut a dowel rod in half and modify something like this.
[EBAY]110792975968[/EBAY]
By cutting the "eyes" off where the threads start then drill a pilot hole in the dowel rods just smaller than the turnbuckle bolt threads and force thread it in just like using all-thread.

The steal will create it's own threads in the wood and follow your pilot hole. Once it's threaded into place you could use epoxy to secure it but usually doing it this way creates a very tight fit. With it between the 2 halves of the dowel rod it would give a much tighter fit than a spring loaded shower rod and still be easily removeable. Just remember when go to thread this into the rod one side of the turnbuckle is reverse threaded so you would have to turn it left to tighten it into the wood. I also would probably go with a 3/8ths turnbuckle instead of a 3/16th like in the link.

 

[TB2k4]

got the dowels into place. i would recommend the shower rod over the wood dowel. i have more faith in the metal than the warped wood. still need to cut the board and carpet it. the metal pole has cane end butts shaved down on it.
View attachment 17263

and the shower rods not spring loaded, simply extended into the holes and duct taped real good... kinda temporary

 

[TB2k4]

Finished!!!!

View attachment 17349.jpg]

details to come. its even secured down to the dowels. used a different dowel idea/

 

[walterc4553]

Wow this reads like what I did for my XL.
I tried the same things Shower rod, Wood Rod, PVC, Wood inside PVC, and 2x4 stands. My best luck was with the rubbermaid brand extendable closet rod for the back and shower rod for the middle and front. The closet rod would fit in the EXT/XL shelf pockets and the shower rod could be pressed against the body panels in a way that it would hold a fair amount of weight

For me I wanted a solution that could drop down flat with the floor (to fill the voids left by the folding seats). And also be put up high to provide a second floor like for hunting and camping (laying down guns etc).

My problem I found was that I always had the board in when I needed the third row seats. So was always trying to store it in the garage or ditch somewhere when camping or hunting.

The wood is hard to get a nice trim next to the wall so I was always having issues cleaning (not a big deal for work purpose only trucks). But stuff always seemed to drop down the sides.

Some more ideas.
For the Wood Rods. I routered out the ends and painted. Another idea for someone.

I purchased the cheap Rubber matting that you can buy in bulk to line the top.

I used heavy duty door hinges to have it hinge and cut channels for the hinge into the wood so that when laid flat the wood pressed itselfagainst keeping the panel from folding down. This did help with the storing and transport.

I put tie down straps into the wood the flat ones that flip up.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Finished!!!!

View attachment 1856

details to come. its even secured down to the dowels. used a different dowel idea/

If you keep your headrests flipped down like that, you could just remove them. Two clips on each one and they come out. Helps when you fold them forward too.

 

[sawicksted]

My width was specific to my two tool boxes so that they would fit snugly without sliding left to right. I also wanted the space on either side in order to still have room to slide misc. stuff in. On the drivers side is umbrella, ice scraper and jumper cables. on the passenger side is tow strap and other misc. recovery stuff.

The top platform sits snug to the back of the seat, which allows a bit of room at the floor level. Pictured here is a 500 watt converter that is hardwired into the rear fuse box power. I have a 3000 watt converter planned for the same area, I just haven't bothered to run power from the battery yet.

This is a great thread - lots of do it yourself / design it to suit your needs. Dressy or functional the cargo area has to work for you or else it's useless. Only one or two people mentioned the safety factor - VERY IMPORTANT consideration. I want to set mine up for camping so I'll have to work something out that is good for me. The inverter will come in handy for lots of reasons.
Just a thought for the people who mention carpet / coverings - many of the big box stores sell large door mats that are usually rubberized on the back. I picked up one for $10 and use it to cover the floor area when moving dirty / greasy gear, chainsaws etc. The mat was about 5 x 6 and would cover the entire area. I didn't feel bad cutting it to get at the tie-downs and it rolls up when I don't want it and I can take it out and power wash it any time I want. Just thought people might find that useful.