Changing plugs on the Envoy 5.3L

[RedneckEnvoy]

Unfortunately I didn't get any pics but I figured I would post up how I changed the plugs on our envoy 5.3L without taking the truck apart and not scrapping any knuckles.

For the drivers side I first used a pair of pliers to pull off the spark plug wires (one at a time since I am used to doing distributor vehicles). I then for the one behind the power steering pump got my hand in their and got the 5/8ths spark plug socket on the plug.
On the end of the spark plug sockets usually are a head where you can put a wrench or another socket.
Well I got a 3/4in socket short and put it on a 3/8ths drive ratchet and got the 3/4in socket on the spark plug socket giving me enough clearance from the exhaust manifold and not to much where it hits the power steering pump or any of the wires.
Removed it and applied a good amount of antisieze on the new plug. I put the plug on hand until I couldn't turn it anymore and then did the same putting the 5/8ths socket on the plug and the 3/4 on the spark plug socket.
I did this for all of the passenger side also minus the far back one (works really good on the plug by the spring tower.
For the far back one I just used a small extension and the spark plug socket on the ratchet and went through the wheel well.

For the other three on the drivers side I just used a small extension on the spark plug socket.

The plug behind the spring tower you have no choice but to pull off by hand unless you have different pliers which I didn't have.

All the plug wires can go on very easy by just pushing them on.


I cannot say it enough don't forget to put antisieze on the plug threads and once the plugs are in put spark plug boot grease. The dealership we got our Envoy XUV from didn't put antisieze or the plug boot grease and it made the project extremely difficult.


(BTW: I ran Autolite copper cores and they are doing great with no CELs or anything. It had to have been better then those cheap champion lawn mower plugs that the dealership put in).
Trav

 

[C-ya]

I like the idea of using the 3/4" on the 5/8" socket. I'll try to remember that when I do my plugs again. I just did them 8,000 miles ago, so I'll be waiting awhile!

 

[linneje]

I agree, that is very clever. I surely had not thought of that because when I did mine I ran into the same problem with the extensions, and a friend suggested that I use a 3/8''/1/2" adapter. That is how I got the correct clearance.

 

[pacanova]

I pulled the finder liners, air box, and washer tank when I did mine. Between the swivel and extensions, I got it done in a couple hours. I'll have to remember that 3/4 over on the next job though.

 

[RedneckEnvoy]

I almost used a 1/2in drive ratchet with 3/8ths drive socket problem is my 1/2in drive ratchet is built for doing front end work on pickup trucks so it is extremely big and would have never worked.


Paca: the only problem I had with pulling the truck apart just to do plugs was I didn't feel like putting even more washer fluid in this thing (this car holds more washer fluid then my 88 F150, 90 F150, and 89 F250 all together). I also don't like using swivels on an aluminum head because if I get it wrong with the swivel then I just ruined a very very expensive head.


I don't know if I had to nescisarrily pull one plug wire off at a time so I would like to hear your guys input on that. Like I said I work on older distributor vehicles a lot so that's how we do it without needing to find the firing order over again.



BTW: not all of the spark plug sockets use 3/4s on the end. Some use 5/8ths. I had to do this with some of the tools I used to change the plugs on my neighbors 4.3L V6 94 Blazer.
Trav

 

[C-ya]

Redneck, these engines use one coil per cylinder, and the plug wires will only fit from the correct coil to the plug for it. You have seen it first hand, but others can see on my thread about changing plugs on the 5.3. http://gmtnation.com/forums/topic/9240-plug-change-on-the-53-demystified/

Paca, welcome, fellow Michigander! (I used to go up there once a month for drill weekend.) You did way more work than you needed to in my opinion. As you can see in my thread, there really is plenty of room if you pull the passenger side tire and work through the wheel well. I wasn't sure how to get it done either until I looked underneath. From the top, you would need to remove a whole lot of stuff.

 

[07Denali]

Just finished doing my plugs and wires. Ahhh what a fun job lol I would advise against using pliers as the first 2 wires fell apart that way as they were baked on to the plugs after 100000miles. I was able to get them off by hand and with the combo of the spark plug socket and 3/4 socket on that along with a universal joint it went very well. then the passenger side wasn't so bad. alot more time consuming compared to my 89 k5 blazer lol. Now for my knuckles to recover...

 

[RedneckEnvoy]

In my opinion if 2 wires fell apart when taking them off then they were gone anyways so using pliers wasn't going to make a difference.
Trav

 

[AWD V8]

When I did mine I found the plugs were easy enough, it was getting the wire connectors off the plugs that was the challenge.

I used my hose pliers to grip, twist and remove the plug wire connectors. It's very important to twist to to get the rubber to release it's grip from the plug before you try to pull it off.

 

[07Denali]

yeah after the 2 fell apart i started doing the twist and turn before pulling and all others came off in one piece. I had planned to do the wires anyways.

 

[RedneckEnvoy]

I fully agree that you should twist the plug wire before pulling. I do that with all my vehicles no matter how old or new.
Trav

 

[lesam678]

Please correct me if I'm wrong...the plug order goes odd on drivers side even on passenger side, with 1 and 2 being at the front of the vehicle, 7 and 8 up against the firewall.

 

[C-ya]

Correct.