Interior Voltmeter reading incorrectly, causing all kinds of problems

fr34kout

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Jan 6, 2012
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662
So I first noticed this problem a few weeks ago when I had to drive my truck to school because I was fixing something on my daily driver. On the freeway I noticed that my analog voltmeter was reading around 12 volts and was slowly going down. I initially thought that my alternator went bad and eventually the voltmeter was reading 9 volts and I was sure the truck would shut off at any time. My speakers (aftermarket system) started crackling so I turned off the deck, and the voltmeter shot back up to 14 volts. Unfortunately I didn't have a DMM on me at the time, so I wasn't able to check the voltage. I drove home fine that night and thought it was just an oddity.

So this week I pulled my truck into the garage to charge my batteries up for a car show / sound competition this weekend. The charger was showing full capacity after the first day, and I left it on to keep a float charge until I pulled it out to wash it this morning. Got ready to go to the show and left my house, noticing that the voltmeter was reading very low again. I checked the voltage before leaving my house with the truck running and it was at 14.1 volts both at the front battery, and at the amp terminals in the back. So I left, and within 5 minutes the voltmeter dropped to 9 volts like it had before, so I pulled into a neighborhood and parked. The speakers were crackling, but when I went to check the voltage at the front battery it was at 15.5 volts.

I turned off the truck thinking that the voltage might keep climbing and wanting to prevent any damage from high voltage spikes. Let it rest for a few minutes, but then when I tried to start it back up it won't even crank. When I turn the key it would shut off all the lights on the dash, and then a few seconds later I heard a buzz noise and my seat moved back to the "key out" position. So I had it towed home, and now I don't even know where to start. The resting voltage is around 12.5 (low, the batteries aren't in the best shape) but there should be more than enough juice to crank the truck with 280 AH of capacity.

The only thing I can think of is that the PCM is misreading the voltage that the alternator is charging at. This might explain why the alternator was charging at 15.5, the PCM was sending a signal saying that it wasn't charging high enough and it ramped up the regulator. I'm not sure why the speakers would crackle with the amps receiving the correct voltage, unless the RCA's were putting out wacky voltage due to the deck being wired to ignition or something? Speaking of which I've read that the ignition switch is known to go bad on our trucks, do these seem like symptoms of a bad ignition switch?

I'm planning on swapping in my stock PCM tomorrow, I currently have one with a tune from PCMofNC. I literally don't know what else to do since I know that the voltage is where it should be, just the PCM is not reading it right.
 
All I've got is that that isn't the typical symptoms of a faulty ignition switch. Most of the time it causes your HVAC blower to turn off and turns the ABS and BRAKE light on in the cluster and causes an obnoxious dinging telling you the parking brake is on (when it's not).
 
Ok yea I've never experienced those issues. Sometimes I have the Stabilitrak come on and the AC starts blowing hot, but I think that's one of the sensors in the steering wheel. That's been going on for years though and is a rare occurrence.
 
If you're in sound competitions, is your alternator upgraded from OEM? Anyway, the PCM depends on a good ground on the fender nearby to do its measurements. Assume you've inspected all the engine compartment grounds?
 
Yea I have a Mechman 240A alternator, and 3 XS Power batteries (1 D3400 under the hood, and 2 D3100's in the back). I have a 1/0 ground from the front battery to the fender for the chassis ground, and the rest of my sound equipment runs directly from the batteries in the rear to the front battery to the alternator ground post.

I'll check the ground to the fender in the morning to make sure it's still secure.
 
Both grounds on the driver side fender are secure, car still won't crank. I'm going to try to swap the PCM later today.
 
What's the battery voltage? If it clicks and dims the lights like you said earlier, its a low/bad battery. The PCM can't make the lights dim on their own, they dim due to the draw from the starter.

Disconnect the front battery from the rest of your battery bank and test the front battery's voltage.
 
Front battery is at 10.1 by itself. Fuck. I guess I'm going to replace all 3 batteries, they're all not in the best shape.
 
What are the back ones reading? If they're reading right individually then maybe just your front battery is bad.

To condemn it, put it on charge for a couple hours and then see how it acts. It should read right around 12.6 with no draw on it then wait maybe a couple hours and meter it again. It's possible that just one cell crapped out in it.

There was one guy here that had massive issues with his battery bank but I think it was just that the alternator wouldn't charge them or something, might be worth a read if you can find the thread.
 
The 2 in the back combined were reading the 12.5 which is still bad, but I didn't check them individually. I might be able to refurbish them individually once they're out of the car. At this point it's pretty much time against me, no days off until summer and even then I'll be working, just no classes.
 

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