Key wont turn in ignition cylinder

[Moots12]

I've been having an on going problem lately, when I put my key in the ignition it takes me 10-12 times trying to turn before it starts. I play with the shifter to make sure it's in park and I jerk the wheel and it still takes 10 times.. But sometimes it does do it, probably 75% of the time. Any ideas?

 

[triz]

I just posted up a few days ago about the same thing. Consensus is to change the ignition switch.

Link to the thread. http://gmtnation.com/f23/key-gets-stuck-ignition-8545/

 

[tragicride]

im gonna keep an eye on this thread to see if you end up with the same problem as me,.... i replaced my ignition cylinder and ever sense my car aint been right

 

[rcfiddy1]

Any follow up? Mine won't turn at all. Replace ignition switch but still the key won't turn.

 

[Texan]

Any follow up? Mine won't turn at all. Replace ignition switch but still the key won't turn.

Go to link in #2, and then go to #19

 

[rcfiddy1]

Go to link in #2, and then go to #19

Ok, but, my issue is the truck shut off perfectly fine and removed the key with no issue but the next day the key went in but I can not turn the key to acc or run.

 

[BRomanJr]

Any follow up? Mine won't turn at all. Replace ignition switch but still the key won't turn.

When you put the key in and it won't turn to any other position, Either you have:

1. Key not in all the way,
2. The wrong key,
3. A bad key,
4. A bad lock cylinder.


If the lock cylinder is damaged it possibly just failed or maybe someone tried to turn it without a key (theft attempt using a screwdriver?).

 

[Texan]

Ok, but, my issue is the truck shut off perfectly fine and removed the key with no issue but the next day the key went in but I can not turn the key to acc or run.

I have not had this problem, but somewhere in all of this information there are stories
about how to remove the lower half of the column cover and push a button on that
solenoid for the lock cylinder that will allow you to turn the key.
Search for key cylinder solenoid maybe.

 

[rcfiddy1]

Well as of now I will be replacing the cylinder since I broke the key off in it. Any ideas how to get the cylinder out. I know you need to turn it to run and push the pin from top down. Is drilling my only option to get it to turn?

 

[Texan]

Well as of now I will be replacing the cylinder since I broke the key off in it. Any ideas how to get the cylinder out. I know you need to turn it to run and push the pin from top down. Is drilling my only option to get it to turn?

Can you get the broken piece out with tweezers? Do you have a spare key?
That lock cylinder has a solenoid that is part of the anti-theft system.

 

[rcfiddy1]

Can you get the broken piece out with tweezers? Do you have a spare key?
That lock cylinder has a solenoid that is part of the anti-theft system.

I got the broken key out but the spare key won't turn in the cylinder either. So I am still stuck with truck in park, key in off position and no way of turning cylinder to run to remove old cylinder.

 

[Texan]

I got the broken key out but the spare key won't turn in the cylinder either. So I am still stuck with truck in park, key in off position and no way of turning cylinder to run to remove old cylinder.

I am happy that you got it out. The problem may be related to the anti theft system.
I do not remember the details, but there is a requirement that the car computer system
acknowledge the correct key is inserted.

Did you replace the ignition switch yourself?

 

[rcfiddy1]

I am happy that you got it out. The problem may be related to the anti theft system.
I do not remember the details, but there is a requirement that the car computer system
acknowledge the correct key is inserted.

Did you replace the ignition switch yourself?

Yes. Did that this morning but than realized the key still would not start.

 

[Texan]

Yes. Did that this morning but than realized the key still would not start.

If you remove the cover that I assumed you did to replace the switch, and examine the lock cylinder,
there is a button associated with cylinder that can be pushed. Search for "anti theft" in the search option.

 

[rcfiddy1]

If you remove the cover that I assumed you did to replace the switch, and examine the lock cylinder,
there is a button associated with cylinder that can be pushed. Search for "anti theft" in the search option.

Yes, I see the button but it does nothing to allow my to turn ignition key to run position.

 

[Texan]

Yes, I see the button but it does nothing to allow my to turn ignition key to run position.

Well maybe somebody with the knowledge to solve this problem will chime in.
I do know that my 2003 has a security system that came on the car that will only
accept the keys that came with it. If you talk to a locksmith, some of them can
"program" replacement keys. A dealer can also do the same thing. I wish you
good luck.

 

[Texan]

I am going to try to link this pdf file. It is about the security system.
Note the part about the shift position switch in the consol. On page 33.

http://www.gmheritagecenter.com/doc...ts/Trailblazer/2003-Chevrolet-Trailblazer.pdf

 

[rcfiddy1]

Thanks anyway. Seems like all info regarding that anti theft says it prevents the ignition key from turning off. I was able to turn off the key and remove it. Which makes me wonder what it could be.

 

[Texan]

Thanks anyway. Seems like all info regarding that anti theft says it prevents the ignition key from turning off. I was able to turn off the key and remove it. Which makes me wonder what it could be.

My 2003 has a red message on the instrument panel that says "security" when I hit remote lock
button. It stays on for maybe a minute. I found one link about "passkey" but it may not help.

Search passkey and you will see what mean.

 

[IllogicTC]

My 2003 has a red message on the instrument panel that says "security" when I hit remote lock
button. It stays on for maybe a minute. I found one link about "passkey" but it may not help.

Search passkey and you will see what mean.

It will either say security, or a yellow lamp showing a car with a padlock on it. This is normal behavior when hitting remote lock, the light will flash or remain on or whatever for 30 seconds before the system is considered armed. After this point, the lamp will turn off. It may flash intermittently on newer models (my 05 doesn't but my roomie's 07 Pontiac G6 does) and if any doors are opened without the system being disabled by pressing unlock or using the key in the outside lock cylinder, will set off the alarm. I'm not sure if it will activate OnStar if you have a subscription with them.

Edit: I think if you use the key on the ignition lock (if you activated the system sitting inside the car for whatever reason) it will turn off, too, as long as it passes the PassKey check.

 

[IllogicTC]

Thanks anyway. Seems like all info regarding that anti theft says it prevents the ignition key from turning off. I was able to turn off the key and remove it. Which makes me wonder what it could be.

No. The Passlock system doesn't mess with the ignition. The shape of the key itself is supposed to operate the pins in the lock cylinder which allows the cylinder to turn. A worn, damaged, or incorrect key will obviously not place the pins in the proper position. A faulty ignition will obviously have trouble turning, too. Passlock is pretty much just a resistor in the ignition module that presents a part of the security puzzle by minimizing the possibility of hotwiring.

The solenoid described within the ignition's sole purpose is to prevent the car from being turned off with the transmission in anything but Park or Neutral (or maybe just Park). Pretty much it locks the cylinder in place. The mention of this solenoid does not even appear in the shop manual as a possible problem when trying to get the ignition out of OFF. However, it can cause the vehicle to be unable to get the key into the OFF position.

There's three causes of this:
-Damaged, worn, or incorrect key. Obviously you have the correct key, but is it damaged or worn down? The key should look silver-colored, the sides of the blade with the "hills" will wear that coating off over time exposing a yellowish-colored metal underneath - this is your first indication that the key isn't in new condition anymore, but not an indicator of actual failure. You can sometimes compare the two sides of the blade, they should be EXACTLY identical, if they're out of shape in comparison to each other it's definitely a worn key.

-Faulty or damaged lock cylinder. This happens a lot, actually. Or at least there's plenty of threads from newcomers, and mentionings-in-passing from long-timers, about replacement. In fact there's posts recommending a spare cylinder be kept on hand just in case.

-Loose ignition lock cylinder case assembly. Don't see a lot of mention of this, but literally you just tighten up some fasteners if they're a bit loosy-goosy, and it sometimes fixes the problem if the above two are not a problem.

 

[Texan]

How about this idea? Lubricate the inside of the cylinder with graphite powder or WD-40.
I looked on the web and found some information, and agree that it is probably a mechanical problem.

 

[rcfiddy1]

I agree something probably mechanical. First thing I did was put graphite on key before I did ignition switch.