New issue. no horn!

Whoy

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Joined
Apr 27, 2014
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76
went to get car inspected now that i have my girl fixed. failed ibspection this time cause car horn is not working. fuse looks to be good. any ideas?
 
Whoy said:
went to get car inspected now that i have my girl fixed. failed ibspection this time cause car horn is not working. fuse looks to be good. any ideas?
you'll need a test light, at the horn harness, check for current when pressing the horn...if there is light, then the horn might be busted....
 
KNBlazer said:
you'll need a test light, at the horn harness, check for current when pressing the horn...if there is light, then the horn might be busted....
And if not, time to play the continuity game. And the fuse LOOKING good is not the same as the fuse being good, as some will tell you around here. They've had hairline fractures which cut off the circuit but LOOKED just fine. A simple continuity check with a multimeter will give you a straightforward go/no-go.
 
Front fuse #21, front relay # 40 (interchange with any nearby that look the same), wiring to the horn, and ground connection coming out of the horn.

The horn relay is turned on by EITHER the steering wheel switch (behind the air bag - requires two nails or nail sets to remove the air bag), OR the BCM that uses the horn for the security alarm, and (if programmed using the DIC if you have a DIC) a confirmation chirp for lock and unlock by the fob.
 
The_Roadie said:
Front fuse #21, front relay # 40 (interchange with any nearby that look the same), wiring to the horn, and ground connection coming out of the horn.

The horn relay is turned on by EITHER the steering wheel switch (behind the air bag - requires two nails or nail sets to remove the air bag), OR the BCM that uses the horn for the security alarm, and (if programmed using the DIC if you have a DIC) a confirmation chirp for lock and unlock by the fob.
dont have fob, checked the 3 digit code in dashbox. not set up for keyless entry. will a dmm be able to work or is test light best?
 
DMM will work as a test light if set on 20 volt DC setting. Will read about 13 volts if you have current.
Black lead is ground. Red lead is positive voltage.
 
Texan said:
DMM will work as a test light if set on 20 volt DC setting. Will read about 13 volts if you have voltage.
Black lead is ground. Red lead is positive voltage.
One minor change from this electrical engineer.

Both a meter and a test light will check a fuse if it's plugged in with power applied. If there's voltage at both ends of the fuse, it's good.

What a test light is useless for is checking a fuse or wire for continuity (low resistance) when it's not powered up.
 
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The_Roadie said:
Front fuse #21, front relay # 40 (interchange with any nearby that look the same), wiring to the horn, and ground connection coming out of the horn.

The horn relay is turned on by EITHER the steering wheel switch (behind the air bag - requires two nails or nail sets to remove the air bag), OR the BCM that uses the horn for the security alarm, and (if programmed using the DIC if you have a DIC) a confirmation chirp for lock and unlock by the fob.
dont have fob, checked the 3 digit code in dashbox. not set up for keyless entry. will a dmm be able to work or is test light best?

got a test light. fuse lights up on both ends. pulled harness off and tested the end of it, and no light
 
Whoy said:
dont have fob, checked the 3 digit code in dashbox. not set up for keyless entry. will a dmm be able to work or is test light best?

got a test light. fuse lights up on both ends. pulled harness off and tested the end of it, and no light
sorry for asking, but you did press the horn right? Check the easy stuff, then go in depth...
 

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