Only getting 160 miles on 25gal tank
- Thread starter pcharm129
- Start date
Bad fuel cap is usually a P0455 (EVAP System, Large Leak) on my Volvo it wouldn't set a code, the car would tell you on the DIC Fuel Filler Cap Open/Loose...not sure about these.
Depends on your needs. Mileage is slightly lower with the V8 but is comparable to the I6. If towing heavy loads, the V8 is better but the I6 is OK for occasional towing and can hold its own. If you get an '05+, a V8 will have DOD/AFM, which has known issues for oil consumption and lifter failures. It can be disabled with a tune, with the slight loss of MPG highway. If it does fail, costs a ton of money to fix. But you can't beat that V8 acceleration and sound.
The reason i ask is because i see a 2006 V8 LT with 157,000 miles on it (mine has about 155,000) for $4500. Going to go see it tomorrow. I remember earlier in this thread, someone said that the V8 is superior to the i6 in pretty much every way. But I was wondering if that also included the longevity of the i6 engine...
I have been debating on trading in for a V8 Denali. Finding one in good shape with in 120 miles has been a problem though. Been mainly looking outside of the rust belt too. I like to see how many MPG i can get out of any vehicle but that V8 sound is was i want deep down inside. I just know it is.
For all intents and purposes, the only longevity issue with the V8 is the DOD valvetrain, which can be disabled.
And yes, I do like my V8 more
And yes, I do like my V8 more
For all intents and purposes, the only longevity issue with the V8 is the DOD valvetrain, which can be disabled.
And yes, I do like my V8 more
And even then the valve train issue is not a given. Only a small percentage of the 5.3s actually have/had the issue. My lifter tick went away when I started using full synthetic oil. I have 120k on mine.
Pcharm, the 5.3 is superior. I know you like your TB, but I will say going full size is like going from bleacher seats to box seats. I have a much more capable truck, more reliable, and better gas mileage than I got with my TB I6. Something to consider...
The early years were problematic. GM even issued a TSB on it as there were issues with the original VLOM (insufficient oil to lifters) and the DOD lifters that were failing on a regular basis (internal wear that locked it in disabled mode). There has to be a problem if there are so many people reporting failures and methods of disabling/removing it.
Yeah there's a problem, but I wouldn't say the majority are a problem. More than there should be, yes. Mine started the problem after 130k (just oil usage and even then I'm not 100% sure it was due to AFM), I tuned it out, oil usage dropped down to very little again.
FWIW, I don't see a full size getting better MPG than an GMT360 (mine won't), although maybe a newer one with a 6 speed over the 4 speed might get a bit better (I have an 07 so still the 4L60E).
FWIW, I don't see a full size getting better MPG than an GMT360 (mine won't), although maybe a newer one with a 6 speed over the 4 speed might get a bit better (I have an 07 so still the 4L60E).
Forgot about the oil consumption issue, which is also apparently related to the VLOM, which is related to when the oil is bled off when the lifters are re-activated.
Listen for louder ticking, particularly at cold startup, on the drive side as those are the DoD lifters. I say louder because some slight ticking of lifters/injectors/etc isn't really abnormal.
Ask about oil consumption too (obviously the guy can lie but worth asking anyway).
Then there is the usual other stuff - maintenance, fluid changes, rust, suspension component condition (ball joints, shocks, etc).
Ask about oil consumption too (obviously the guy can lie but worth asking anyway).
Then there is the usual other stuff - maintenance, fluid changes, rust, suspension component condition (ball joints, shocks, etc).
Check for off-road use/abuse by looking for mud and damage on the underside. The LS engines do have a little history of lifter tick louder than usual, even from the regular lifters.
And this is from personal experience, under moderate acceleration, listen for a "sewing machine" type noise coming from the engine or valvetrain between 2-3000 RPM. I'm preparing to replace my entire valvetrain, minus valves, because of this noise. Oil analysis confirmed high iron content indicating metal on metal wear. Mine's on the passenger side.
And this is from personal experience, under moderate acceleration, listen for a "sewing machine" type noise coming from the engine or valvetrain between 2-3000 RPM. I'm preparing to replace my entire valvetrain, minus valves, because of this noise. Oil analysis confirmed high iron content indicating metal on metal wear. Mine's on the passenger side.
If I recall they fixed it in the '09s or '10s. But it was a TSB not a recall. Should have been a recall.
Thanks fellas! I checked it out. Engine seemed ok, but too much rust for me. And too much body work necessary. Lots of small nicks and scratches ALL OVER the truck. Cracked front bumper. Etc. Im going up to CT Tuesday to check out a few. If i dont find anything, im just going to bite the bullet and replace my engine. Already spent over $400 on a rental. Thats almost half the cost for the repair already...smh
At this price, you REALLY can't be picky. Plus where you're shopping, it's scammer heaven. Seriously, I'm not being a jerk I'm kind of just highlighting the unfortunate fact with shopping for this type of vehicle in this part of America.
I bought another truck today! About 3k more miles than mine, but fully loaded. Engine sounds GREAT. But it does need some work. New fan clutch, digital gas level says low fuel, even though i filled it up. Guage is also saying E. Quite a bit of rust. Not rotted chasis rust (at least, not to my knowledge). Its definitely going to be a serious restoration project. And of COURSE nothing went smoothly today... Another case of Murphy's Law. I drove 75 miles to Poughkeepsie, NY to see the truck, bought it, and STILL dont have it because of various complications. Have to take a Rail Train (Metro North) BACK up there to have AAA tow it down to NYC...smh. But i GOT IT!
Sorry guys... Been SUPER busy lately. Taking every bit of work I can get. This new truck destroyed my finances...
No pics yet. But I'll post some before we end THIS thread, and start a NEW one. Because this truck definitely has a few issues. I'm really scared it was flooded, and some how that info didn't make the carfax. Because its not on the one the dealer/mechanic showed me on his phone app. Going to have my/a mechanic run the gamut on it today or ASAP.
No can do. 2 different trucks (LS vs LT). Old one has no bells and whistles. New one has ALL the bells and whistles... Going to try and find a detailer or something that can chemically remove the rust. I didn't see any corrosion, but we'll see when she gets on a lift. She did pass inspection. For whatever worth that holds...
You have two full trucks, you can swap everything over to the better chassis. A lot of work moving the harnesses and such but it can be done. Or, if it is the same engine you can just swap that to yours, trim level doesn't matter for that (unless you want the better trim options of course).
Or just move all your new parts from the old truck to the "new" truck unless you went from an I6 to a V8 where only the fan clutch would interchange.
Nope. Like I said, no can do. I live in NYC. There is NO possible way to do that here unless you own a house with a huge yard or driveway. Swapping internals is more trouble than its worth. I wouldn't spend $4k on a another truck to do that. Im gonna take it back up to poughkeepsie. The dealer said he's going to address the rust and treat it. But there's A LOT of rust. Don't know yet if there's bad corrosion yet. But if Im not satisfied with how he deals with it, im going to file a complaint with the DMV Vehicle Safety Division, if he doesnt want to refund my $.
You guys can take a look at the links below:
http://s179.photobucket.com/user/pcharm129/slideshow/05 Trailblazer
http://s179.photobucket.com/user/pcharm129/slideshow/05 Trailblazer/05 Trailblazer Rust
I'm still waiting to go back up to Poughkeepsie. I may be able to make it on Thursday. Anybody have any suggestions for me based on the photos, as to whether i should try to get back my $, or whetherit looks treatable? Or even where else i can make a complaint if they wont take the truck back?
I looked at the pictures and thought the same thing. The parts that are rusted aren't critical parts.
Look at the frame and the upper/lower control arm, bad rust there would be a concern.