service engine soon light blinks and engine flutters.

Jake Blazer

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Mar 29, 2014
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I blew the original engine and I had another engine put in. I have been driving it for three months and had no problems until today. The engine would miss,sputter when I was idling then it progressed to when I was at a consistent speed. I just figured bad gas but then it got worse almost doing it constantly and the ses light blinks. I quickly parked it and am trying to find answers. The engine I put in was at 90,000 miles. Like I said it ran great. All I did was cut the resonator off like a week ago. Does any one have a clue?
 
Best bet is to get a code reader and read the codes its tossing. Only then will you find the answer young padawon.

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Jake Blazer said:
I blew the original engine and I had another engine put in. I have been driving it for three months and had no problems until today. The engine would miss,sputter when I was idling then it progressed to when I was at a consistent speed. I just figured bad gas but then it got worse almost doing it constantly and the ses light blinks. I quickly parked it and am trying to find answers. The engine I put in was at 90,000 miles. Like I said it ran great. All I did was cut the resonator off like a week ago. Does any one have a clue?

You need to get the truck scanned with a code reader, or get a Bluetooth OBD2 adapter and run the Torque Pro app on an Android phone to scan it yourself. With those, you can tell which cylinder is misfiring or if it's random/all cylinders. If it's just one cylinder, you can pretty well narrow it down to plug, coil, valve, etc for that one cylinder. If it's all cylinders, then it's something else like a sensor that's screwed up or bad fuel.
 
Trios said:
You need to get the truck scanned with a code reader, or get a Bluetooth OBD2 adapter and run the Torque Pro app on an Android phone to scan it yourself. With those, you can tell which cylinder is misfiring or if it's random/all cylinders. If it's just one cylinder, you can pretty well narrow it down to plug, coil, valve, etc for that one cylinder. If it's all cylinders, then it's something else like a sensor that's screwed up or bad fuel.

wow! Thanks. I will try this app on android. I am afraid to drive it to the parts store to get scanned. The SES light blinks and I thought that meant to immediately stop, Park and fix it. Is there a way to reset that you know of?
 
Jake Blazer said:
wow! Thanks. I will try this app on android. I am afraid to drive it to the parts store to get scanned. The SES light blinks and I thought that meant to immediately stop, Park and fix it. Is there a way to reset that you know of?

The SES light blinking is often an indication of a misfire condition. A misfire can hurt your catalytic converter if you drive for too long, but if it's just a quick run to a parts store and back home you will be OK.

If you can handle having the vehicle down while you wait for shipping, then you can purchase the adapter and use the app. I bought this particular adapter and it's been working great, but there are other options:

Sears.com

Once you know what the codes are, you can go from there.
 
my truck has had a intermittent ruff idle/sputtering on take off for about a week now. I've got the ELM 327 blue tooth adapter on its way. My good friend just dropped off his scan gauge II so hopefully I'll know more tomorrow.

At least you have a code!:raspberry:

That sucks its your second engine man. Good luck!
 
Jake Blazer said:
wow! Thanks. I will try this app on android. I am afraid to drive it to the parts store to get scanned. The SES light blinks and I thought that meant to immediately stop, Park and fix it. Is there a way to reset that you know of?

Where do I get this and exactly what is this?:smile:
 
Jake Blazer said:
wow! Thanks. I will try this app on android. I am afraid to drive it to the parts store to get scanned. The SES light blinks and I thought that meant to immediately stop, Park and fix it. Is there a way to reset that you know of?

You did the right thing by not driving it. Maybe a buddy has one you can borrow?
 
yodaddy4200 said:
my truck has had a intermittent ruff idle/sputtering on take off for about a week now. I've got the ELM 327 blue tooth adapter on its way. My good friend just dropped off his scan gauge II so hopefully I'll know more tomorrow.

At least you have a code!:raspberry:

That sucks its your second engine man. Good luck!

Yeah right.... This was supposed to be a good deal, and even worse, I got it through family.I Love the trailblazer just starting to get expensive. I thought all was well and bought a leveling kit. was excited about Blackin it Out. I hope you find out something..... I look forward to reading it. I am going to figure mine out tomorrow. I will Post an answer Soon. Good Luck on your end.

Trios said:
The SES light blinking is often an indication of a misfire condition. A misfire can hurt your catalytic converter if you drive for too long, but if it's just a quick run to a parts store and back home you will be OK.

If you can handle having the vehicle down while you wait for shipping, then you can purchase the adapter and use the app. I bought this particular adapter and it's been working great, but there are other options:

Sears.com

Once you know what the codes are, you can go from there.

I appreciate your help.
 
You can rent a code reader from some auto parts stores. Then you'd be able to read codes without driving it with a blinking SES light.
 
yodaddy4200 said:
Well checked my CPAS today its clean! Damn

I am sure it is not fixed but I reset it. and drove it all day long. I also disconnected and reconnected every wire fuse I could find. She is purring like a kitten. I know this did not fix the problem but it worked. I did find a vacuum hose that was cracked.
 
I put a fresh tank of 92 octane with techron in today so well see if that helps. The scan gauge didn't have any weird data that I could see.
 
The code might still show under pending. Hopefully it was just that vacuum.

@Yodaddy you want the concentrated bottle from the auto parts store. The big bottle that treats at least 20 gallons. The smaller only treats 12.
 
If you don't have a code reader handy and the problem is a coil, with the engine idling, unplug one coil at a time, and then plug it back in...if there is a bad coil/plug in there, you'll notice it, as it's pretty evident by the way the engine idles.... the cylinder that does nothing at all, will be the one to further diagnose...
 
Even with a switched motor, I would venture to guess the fuel filter was left in-place on the underside of the vehicle. When was it last changed? And if your new engine is 02-04 model year, check your fuel pressure regulator, also.
 
thank you all for your suggestions....I am still having problems. I did in fact replace coil #3 and the cpas rotates....need one of those... fan clutch speed sensor code coming up so I just checked the connection and it started working properly.Can I cut cat converter off?
 
Jake Blazer said:
thank you all for your suggestions....I am still having problems. I did in fact replace coil #3 and the cpas rotates....need one of those... fan clutch speed sensor code coming up so I just checked the connection and it started working properly.Can I cut cat converter off?
You CAN, but it just throws more codes. And is also illegal. Therefore, I would say unless the purpose is to replace it immediately, do not cut the cat out.

The CPAS could cause crappy running. I know mine wasn't stellar when my CPAS was out. It wasn't horrible, but it was definitely not a very good run.
 
Jake Blazer said:
thank you all for your suggestions....I am still having problems. I did in fact replace coil #3 and the cpas rotates....need one of those... fan clutch speed sensor code coming up so I just checked the connection and it started working properly.Can I cut cat converter off?
Just because the CPAS rotates doesn't mean it's borked. Check it for oil in the connector or problems in the screens, no need to randomly throw money at it.

Something else you may want to check is the wiring for the coils. Sometimes they can develop kinks that create intermittent connections. With the engine running you can go through and wiggle the wires around on the coils and see if that helps/hurts. If that's the case you can get a new harness from a junkyard and solder it in.

You can always reset the PCM for kicks and giggles. Either disconnect the battery or pull the PCM fuses for 15 minutes, though this will clear any codes. Get those read beforehand.

As for fuel cleaners like mentioned before, the Techron concentrate is good, but if you can't find it (god forbid) Redline and BG 44k (I use this) work well too. Though from your descriptions it sounds more likely to me that this is an electrical issue.
 
I and another person had a CPAS in which the exterior and interior halves were able to rotate independently. Both of us replaced with new AC Delco, and the problem was solved. My new unit I know is two halves, but felt solid like a single cohesive unit. A failure of the pressing does who knows what to the insides, I still have my old one so I may pull it apart and see exactly what's up with it, just like sometimes the interior seal fails but somehow it runs even with oil in the connector.
 

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