stall out

Nycbeef1

Nycbeef1

Member
Jul 27, 2013
9
gd day everyone,m almost at my end,got my TBSS 4 months ago an since then ive done struts upper and lower control arms stabilizer bushings air bags then I had a spun bearing so tear down an new crank bearings pistons crank sensor now I got a knocking on top which I understand from a previous post could be the a rocker ,but the killer is that it stalls out not wether driving or not ,did the crank sensor an ignition switch to no avail,code are p1516,p1682,p0443,p0689,p2101 I need help ,like the truck but could do without the headache
 
Nycbeef1 said:
gd day everyone,m almost at my end,got my TBSS 4 months ago an since then ive done struts upper and lower control arms stabilizer bushings air bags then I had a spun bearing so tear down an new crank bearings pistons crank sensor now I got a knocking on top which I understand from a previous post could be the a rocker ,but the killer is that it stalls out not wether driving or not ,did the crank sensor an ignition switch to no avail,code are p1516,p1682,p0443,p0689,p2101 I need help ,like the truck but could do without the headache
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mine was stalling once every few days for no reason. No idiot lights on. Finally got a code and changed the camshaft position sensor. Problem solved. Not sure why it took months before it threw a code
 
Clean PCM connections,Throttle Body Connections. P0869 is a weak battery/PCM fuse code check the battery for 12v a weak battery cause these things to go insane. Did you do the rebuild yourself?
 
No I didn't do the rebuild myself, took it to a shop, the crank sensor was jus changed when all of this started happening, not 100% if the programming took tho, changed the throttle body already and doing the same thing, only seems to happen when I'm running the AC tho, don't know if its the extra heat that contributing to the stalling, pulled the fuse box and no visible shorts and the PCM plugs are all clean
 
But if the truck is running and the alternator is putting out 14vdc why would the truck stall out cause of a bad battery, after start the alternator recharges the battery an powers everything else, the alternator was just changed to
 
probably missed some information like what your idle rpm is, in park / neutral and in drive. I would go thru resetting / relearning of the pcm and running parameters. Further, get some live data on things like fuel trims, throttle, advance, air flow, etc... "parameters" and see if they give you any more indications of issues.
 
DTC 1682 says ignition voltage to PCM was below 9 volts when running. DTC 0689 says basically same thing. DTC 0443 is EVAP related and won't cause what you are seeing. DTC 1516 and 02101 are throttle position related failures and can shut down the engine if the PCM thinks things are unsafe.. I personally would reset the PCM with a scanner or just pull negative battery cable, or two fuses in under hood fuse panel for a few mins. Then see what DTC(s) comes back first.. The voltage may have been a fluke, but you have to make sure that's not a real problem. If you'r running 14volts then could be an ignition switch, or voltage DTCs could be old DTC's picked up from abnormal stuff happening when working on the engine replacement.
 
Well the ignition switch was the first to get changed an the PCM was changed last week, it's still doing the same thing
 
I know this is an old post and I'm new here, but I'm having the same problem (same codes truck stalling) what is the fix for this? I replaced battery and ignition switch so far. Limited on day light so i haven't been able to check all the harnesses yet
 
Solution was never posted, if one was found, and it's been over two years. So lets start fresh. Please describe all the symptoms, codes, what happens, when and how. Mileage and what has been done so far would be useful.
 
It started last week i have about a 10 mile drive from work ran fine. Had to make a quick run got in got about a mile down the road and then it just stalled. Tired to start it but it would only crank. Called a friend who lives about 15 mins away come to come tow me. When he got there i went to show him what it was doing fired right up. While waiting for him i scanned the codes and got p1516,p1682,p0443,p0689,p2101. Next day replaced battery and ignition switch. Same result ran for about an hour then stalled. Scanned the codes again same ones. I had the alternator tested and it was good. Replaced the two 3604 relays (power train and ignition) But I've noticed that the i have to turn the key more then once sometimes now to start. Not sure if its just bad luck and got another bad switch. or if its something else. i plan to go return the switch today after work and get a new one. The car has about 57000 miles. Only other work that been done to it since i got it in June is change oil and the oil pressure switch and i need to replace the air springs.
 
I'm almost tempted to say it's the PCM but lets check other things first. Check and clean all your grounds. Pull the fuses, check that they are good and make sure that they make good contact in the fuse box connectors. Pull the connectors off the PCM and ensure there is no corrosion in the connector or on the PCM pins. Check the throttle body connector as well as the pedal sensor.

Another thing you can try is disconnecting the fan. I think all these circuits run off the same 5V reference and the fan has been found at fault at times. It shouldn't overheat at this time of year but keep an eye on the temperature.
 
Check my sig for the link to the manuals.
 
Everything i could see looked good. Worked late last night so i didnt have time to let it run after disconnecting the fan. Replacing the ignition switch again today and will let it run to see what it does.
 
so now more problems. replaced the ignition switch now nothing. lights will come on. turn the key to start nothing. stab trac turns off and the gauge light comes on. fuel gauge stays on E and the low fuel light comes on . and the gear light stills off no matter what gear im in.
 
Maybe it skipped a gear?
 
Stupid question probably. But are you sure your installing your ignition switch correctly? Not telling you your
Wrong, just checking before
Diagnosing
 
I tried it a few times last night but between the mosquitoes and me getting aggravated i called it a night. Bout to get off work so i will try again when i get home
 
So you were right to ask a stupid question just the wrong one. Just got home popped the hood. Forgot to connect a few things. Started right up. Now letting it run to see if it stalls
 
The P1682 I think is the one to focus on indicating an ignition switch fault. time to check wiring for chafing and damage. Check for voltages in and out of the switch circuits according to the wiring diagrams. I think once you solve this one, the others will go with it.

P1682 Description and possible causes:
- Faulty ignition switch
- Ignition Switch harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Switch circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)

If all checks out, maybe try swapping the PCM but that is not a cheap proposition as these are harder to come by than the I6 version. If you do, just a security relearn will get it working and then, if it's truly fixed, get the CASE relearn done at the dealer to get rid of the P0014.
 
So ran out of time trying to trace this so i called the dealer. Kinda kicking my self right now cause i thought about changing it out but it was the underhood fuse box. Cost about 530. Thanks for all the help it saved me a lot of money talking to the dealer because i was able to eliminate unnecessary parts.
 
Certainly explains all the codes at the same time. Thanks for posting the fix.
 
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