Stock parts @ 160k miles, what should I replace before it breaks?

khill

khill

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Joined
Jan 7, 2012
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86
As the title states, I have almost all stock parts (sans shocks, did those about 10k ago) with about 160k miles on em. What should I replace, as a preventative measure, before they break? Nothing seems wrong with it suspension/steerage-wise, which makes me worry just a bit because I see others having parts break at far less mileage. Maybe I'm just lucky.

The vehicle is my daily driver and only endures light offroading and trails as required for my summer job on the beach or SAR work. I'm gearing up for a cross country move to northern Virginia and think it's time for a bit of an overhaul on the truck.

Thanks!
 
I'm not sure I'd replace anything before it starts making noise except shocks, which you've done.

ALL fluids, though. Be religious about fluids.

The reason you read abot breakage is self-selection bias. The happy, failure-free owners never post up. Most of them never even look for and join forums. You only hear about the broken bits.
 
1. Transfer Case (AutoTrak II -Dealer only item but i got from amazon.com) 2 Quarts is all you need and a good pump to replace fluid its in a tough spot . 10MM Hex to remove fill hole covers, i just made sure they both break free before removing anything, crack them free then tighten. Start with top one.
2. Front and rear Differentials - 75w90 Gear oil Synthetic seems to be the choice here.
3. O2 Sensors AC Delco only front and rear
4. Plugs -ACDelco 41-103 Professional Iridium Spark Plug
5. Serp Belt I recommend Gaterback belts but thats a personal choice.
6. inspect all susspension components for bad boots on ball joints and susspension links.
7. last time thermostat replaced? Thermostat Sensor? I would replace as a set. while in there fluch out and replace with either mix of Dexcool (lots say its Junk) or Green Antifreeze but make sure all of the rest of the Dexcool is gone. hear it gums up and clogs the radiator and heater core if not mixed correctly.
8. inspect Hub Bearings for noise (Its been recommended they be replaced in pairs as well)
9. Inspect Secondary air injection Solenoid on exhaust port for rust inside. Causes common problems with Emmisions system and CEL's if its rusty your going to get the light eventually. Mine popped at 152K. Simple and 45 dollar parts and super easy to install.
10. Super easy job.. remove Throttle body and clean thoroughly. both sides. then remove fuses to clear PCM.. if you have an older vehicle i think 2003 or Older then I hear disconnecting battery is bad as actuators for AC system try to reset and can break. ( I also found removing the Coil under the 1 TB Bolt makes removing it a lot easier :)

This seems to be pretty comprehensive and a good list in my mind to start with.

Good Luck
-Bill
 
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Bill05EnvoySLT said:
10. Super easy job.. remove Throttle body and clean thoroughly. both sides.
Click to expand...

You would have way of knowing this, but my buddy khill here is an old-timer from trailvoy, and WROTE one of the first throttle body cleaning articles back there. :biggrin: I hope I'm not misremembering that. :redface:
 
The_Roadie said:
You would have way of knowing this, but my buddy khill here is an old-timer from trailvoy, and WROTE one of the first throttle body cleaning articles back there. :biggrin: I hope I'm not misremembering that. :redface:
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Ok so you agree with the little list of Items to check on then Roadie?
This is what I am using for my truck as I just got it about 1.5 moths ago now. :) All but front and rear dif's and plugs are complete. plan on getting to the rest hopefully this weekend. Or was I supposed to replace the Keg I kicked yesterday? :confused:
 
The_Roadie said:
You would have way of knowing this, but my buddy khill here is an old-timer from trailvoy, and WROTE one of the first throttle body cleaning articles back there. :biggrin: I hope I'm not misremembering that. :redface:
Click to expand...
Hah! You remember correct, sir. I wonder if that article ever made it's way over here It is now...

To the other Bill (05EnvySLT), I like your item checklist, and I'm going to check that air injection solenoid today. Though I would also suggest checking the CPAS for gunk/screen damage/oil in the connector, a new fuel filter, and to never use anything besides the latest DEX for coolant. :twocents:


My first post in years and I hijack it myself... :rotfl:
 
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Bill05EnvoySLT said:
9. Inspect Secondary air injection Solenoid on exhaust port for rust inside. Causes common problems with Emmisions system and CEL's if its rusty your going to get the light eventually. Mine popped at 152K. Simple and 45 dollar parts and super easy to install.


This seems to be pretty comprehensive and a good list in my mind to start with.

Good Luck
-Bill
Click to expand...
Sorry my ignorance, but where is the Secondary Air Injection Solenoid on the 4.2 or 5.3L engines? I don't recall every seeing anyone report a problem or fix with that part.
 
Pretty much what Bill 05 said, before your long haul I would go with the at least the plugs and upstream 02 sensor for sure. I cannot comment on the Gatorback belts but for me, I personally go with the dealer on the serpentine belts. There's just too much room for error and they are measured in millimeters and the price difference is negligible.

One thing for sure, after you change your belt, store the old one in the rear cargo area along with a 3/8 breaker bar or ratchet. Needless to say if the belt breaks you are up the creek and it will likely break on a Sunday night 30 miles from anywhere.

Winchester huh? We will practically be neighbors...sort of anyway.

I would say at that mileage it would be very wise to start updating some tranny parts. When you get here if you want some help, a few brews and a pizza and we could make a half-day commitment and get it done.
 
Worth noting some trucks don't have that. Mine doesn't have it. Doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason why some do and some don't.
 
khill said:
Hah! You remember correct, sir. I wonder if that article ever made it's way over here It is now...

To the other Bill (05EnvySLT), I like your item checklist, and I'm going to check that air injection solenoid today. Though I would also suggest checking the CPAS for gunk/screen damage/oil in the connector, a new fuel filter, and to never use anything besides the latest DEX for coolant. :twocents:


My first post in years and I hijack it myself... :rotfl:
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Ok First Sorry wasnt aware that you were an allumni to the sites (Im the Noob here and just trying to offer up a little help ) :)
Second I noticed your comment about the CPAS,, I did pull and clean mine within the first week i had the truck.. I noticed the screens were dirty and also that 1 of the 3 screens was damaged. I had changed the oil and dint think anything of it. just curious i noticed how fine a screen it was and now im thinking twice about it, what damage if any could occur from not having the screen on it? Should i replace it ASAP, or am i playing russian roulette as it stands? I do have the current progress to my truck in my Sig. :raspberry: :woot:

Sparky said:
Worth noting some trucks don't have that. Mine doesn't have it. Doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason why some do and some don't.
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I thought all 4.2L had these especially in out GMT360,370 models... I know a lot of you out there with tunes from PCM4Less had it tuned out of the program and blocked off the ports.. Is that what your referencing? Still Learning.. :thumbsup:
 
2002 didn't for the most part. 2003 had some. I believe 04 and beyond was made mandatory. I'm sure it was part of the system to allow sale in emissions-strict states, and was just tossed on all of them as federal emissions standards rose.
 
I know I need the infamous cpas but for some reason the auto stores don't know what that is. is there another name for it.??????
 
Jake Blazer said:
I know I need the infamous cpas but for some reason the auto stores don't know what that is. is there another name for it.??????
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Nope, that IS the name. Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid. GM part 12615873, that may help them. They'll probably try selling you the Dorman equivalent, I'd pass on that and demand Genuine GM / AC Delco.

Some places call it like a "valve" and other things, but really there's like 70 different valves on this thing, that's not very descriptive.
 
IllogicTC said:
2002 didn't for the most part. 2003 had some. I believe 04 and beyond was made mandatory. I'm sure it was part of the system to allow sale in emissions-strict states, and was just tossed on all of them as federal emissions standards rose.
Click to expand...
There are some later ones that don't have it as well IIRC. There is actually an official GM part number for the blockoff plate used lol.
 
think about the idler pulleys, and tensioner perhaps.

also the radiator cap.

and think about flushing brake fluid, if not done as part of brake service.

some folks also like to change out the PS fluid, just drain and fill with a baster or other suction device several times a few days apart.

look closely at the spare, and make sure the hoist is well lubricated.

have fun in traffic coming around here
 
and just go ahead and change the water pump.

and measure your brake pads to make sure plenty of wear for the trip.
 
For Jake, the CPAS was called "variable timing solenoid" on rockauto when I bought it. Just try and ask them about a timing solenoid and look at it if they bring you one, they look like this: http://www.carid.com/images/dorman/engine-parts/917-010.jpg

The new model I bought that is a delphi SL10064 and it is slightly different, I think they changed the style in the later dates because my OEM one is like in the picture above where it has a little black part that I think holds the screens to the sensor. My new one I bought has a little spring around the screen to hold it on for secondary measures. Super easy to replace. It took me a whole 30 mins to do but only because I had a little trouble getting the threads lined up on the power steering pump when I was putting it back up on the block.

Super easy to replace, theres a thread on how to do it, just unbolt the 3 bolts for your power steering pump, lower the pump a little, disconnect the electrical connector from the CPAS, back off the 1 bolt holding the CPAS to the engine and pull it out.

And OP: on the topic of other members suggesting suspension checks, make sure the bushings are nice and tight and not worn out for the sway bars and any other parts like the control arms. Really though for me I just keep up on the fluid changes (oil, transfercase, transmission, differentials, radiator, brake, power steering) and things like that and lubing up my spare tire cable with bearing grease (I know its stainless but I do it to try and prevent it from getting caught when I drop it and that) and oiling the crap out of your secondary latch if you even use it, I do so I penetrate the crap out of it with PB blaster about every 4 months to keep it working. Check your driveshaft for any play, cv boots for cracks. and any leaks on your engine like I discovered recently a very very small pinhole leak on piston 3 where oil is in the spark plug well but its not even enough to concern me yet.
 
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