Only getting 160 miles on 25gal tank
- Thread starter pcharm129
- Start date
OMG! That is so disheartening to hear. From your description, sounds like a valve dropped into the cylinder and has locked the engine. Maybe something got wedged between the cam and valve spring and dislodged the valve spring keepers when it spun. Who knows.
It just plain sucks.
It just plain sucks.
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Sorry Sparky. Didn't get any pics after the fact. I was just to done to even think about anything else but "i can't believe this".
YUP! That's
what happened.
Well, since im going to have to get a new engine, can i put something more powerful in there? Or is that going to be more of a headache than its worth?
Trying to convert to another engine can be done technically but a huge headache. Easiest would be a newer 4.2L as they did improve the heads a bit in the later years. I think some electronics need swapped around to make that work but I don't recall exactly.
FWIW... If you are not doing your own labour with "A Fist Full of Friends" on hand to help get the Old Engine out and the New Engine in...Try to negotiate your labour costs down by offering your Old Engine to the Mechanic as partial payment. @MAY03LT will wisely advise you to, "Hang On to Your Old Sh*t..." because many of those Old Engine parts will remain serviceable forever and will really come in handy some day.
Also...there are a few excellent contemporary threads that can guide you through the many small and important things worth doing B4 you put the motor into the vehicle and you'll soon figure and find out how much easier it will be by getting the "housecleaning" done on the ostensibly Newer Engine WHILE ITS STILL ON AN ENGINE STAND and save yourself a bushel basket full of minor troubles later on.
If a Hired Mechanic is doing the work for you...be sure to include your Laundry List of "Things To Do First...WITHOUT FAIL" ...so he doesn't add in additional labour fees while the newer engine is still bolted to an Engine Stand that a Newborn Baby would find easy to walk around and work on the motor. Some Good Examples of the things worth doing B4 Installing are:
(1) R&R The REAR ENGINE OIL SEAL
(2) R&R The FLEX-PLATE
(3) Power Flush the Lower Engine thru the Oil Drain Plug to Flush out any Debris B4 Filling it
(4) Look over the Valve Cover for Leaks and water inside the Spark Plug wells
(5) R&R and Read all 6 Spark Plugs
(6) Pull off the Intake Manifold and clean out all of the Carbon & Oil build-up
(7) When you re-install The Intake Manifold... double check that all fasteners are tight
(8) Examine your Exhaust Ports and search EACH BOLT HOLE for any broken off studs
(9) If you need to extract any Broken Bolts...Engine Stand Repairs will be much easier NOW
(10) Replace your Motor and Transmission Mounts while you can still see them to R&R
...and so forth... There are many other related posts... and just as many helpful and contributory members here to give you encouragement and offer more ideas and suggestions on how you can stay on track... with as few surprises as possible. You will come to know some of the people here will be acting like Real Guardian Angels... and all us as well, have your best interests in mind in getting you well past your present difficulties... and once again, able to get back on the road.
Also...there are a few excellent contemporary threads that can guide you through the many small and important things worth doing B4 you put the motor into the vehicle and you'll soon figure and find out how much easier it will be by getting the "housecleaning" done on the ostensibly Newer Engine WHILE ITS STILL ON AN ENGINE STAND and save yourself a bushel basket full of minor troubles later on.
If a Hired Mechanic is doing the work for you...be sure to include your Laundry List of "Things To Do First...WITHOUT FAIL" ...so he doesn't add in additional labour fees while the newer engine is still bolted to an Engine Stand that a Newborn Baby would find easy to walk around and work on the motor. Some Good Examples of the things worth doing B4 Installing are:
(1) R&R The REAR ENGINE OIL SEAL
(2) R&R The FLEX-PLATE
(3) Power Flush the Lower Engine thru the Oil Drain Plug to Flush out any Debris B4 Filling it
(4) Look over the Valve Cover for Leaks and water inside the Spark Plug wells
(5) R&R and Read all 6 Spark Plugs
(6) Pull off the Intake Manifold and clean out all of the Carbon & Oil build-up
(7) When you re-install The Intake Manifold... double check that all fasteners are tight
(8) Examine your Exhaust Ports and search EACH BOLT HOLE for any broken off studs
(9) If you need to extract any Broken Bolts...Engine Stand Repairs will be much easier NOW
(10) Replace your Motor and Transmission Mounts while you can still see them to R&R
...and so forth... There are many other related posts... and just as many helpful and contributory members here to give you encouragement and offer more ideas and suggestions on how you can stay on track... with as few surprises as possible. You will come to know some of the people here will be acting like Real Guardian Angels... and all us as well, have your best interests in mind in getting you well past your present difficulties... and once again, able to get back on the road.
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There were some modest HP improvements to later years but it would involve more stuff to modify, mostly wiring and PCM, to make it work. I wouldn't do it. I'd stick with the same motor. Remember KISS.
Thanks MRRSM! I'll definitely tell the mechanic to run the gamut you've put forth. I plan to make sure that he swapps all my new and warranted engine parts too. Which there are plenty. Gonna make a list for him! I would also like to keep the old engine. I'd tear it apart and fix it just cause AND to sell it and offset my expense. But unfortunately I don't have any where to keep it. Which SUKS!
Cool. Thanks littleblazer! Do you have an idea as to around how much this repair will cost me?
A "Re manufactured" 4..2L Engine is a rare item... Generally, new... but incomplete "Crate" Engines hover around $3,000.00...and still require professional preparing and installation that will bounce a bill right at your wallet at around $4,000.00 if completely installed. A better option is trying to find used 4.2L out of a non-head on collision donor vehicle that has hopefully less that 100,000 miles of wear and tear.
The problem is that there are only two kinds of vehicles with these engines;
(1) Those that are kept on the road as long as possible... and that can approach 250,000 Miles.
(2)...and those that are broken....and will NEVER ever be repaired because paying $4,000 for a replacement engine when you can double that figure andalmost buy a decent replacement for the SUV.
The problem is that there are only two kinds of vehicles with these engines;
(1) Those that are kept on the road as long as possible... and that can approach 250,000 Miles.
(2)...and those that are broken....and will NEVER ever be repaired because paying $4,000 for a replacement engine when you can double that figure andalmost buy a decent replacement for the SUV.
It's probably impossible to get a new crate 4.2 since they don't make them anymore. I would imagine the dealer can get a reman because they have an exchange program. I'm pretty sure that there are shops that can rebuild them. I'd try and fins a good low mileage used motor.
If it costs me more than 800 to replace the engine, the truck is scrap. Not spending a mint on it. Pumped more than enuff $$ into her already. But now I'm thinking that maybe the engine won't actually have to be replaced. The fact that oil starting pooling from under the truck the last time I tried to start her may mean that the rod may have shot into the oil pan and partially punctured it. And the rod may be just sitting in there. HOPEFULLY unaccompanied by any teeth from internal gearing...
I can't see how a valve could even get into the oil pan. It's physically impossible. You would have to see where the oil is coming from. If it did drop a valve, which I suspect, it would have damaged the piston top as well as the head. Even if the piston survived with a minor nick, you would need a rebuilt head and those ain't cheap. Labour is a bitch too. Just ask @MRRSM.
If you can do it yourself, you might be able to get it it done close to $800. Again, it's the labour that's a killer.
If you can do it yourself, you might be able to get it it done close to $800. Again, it's the labour that's a killer.
I thought the same thing about them being as scarce as Hen's Teeth, too...but sometimes they the Damned Things "Hide in Plain Sight"
https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/crate-engines/make/chevrolet/engine-size/4-2l-256
Trust me...Regardless of how solid your "Mechanic's Chops" are... It is easier to take your pants off over your head... than doing an R&R of the Aluminum Cylinder Head on a GM Atlas 4.2L LL8 Engine.
Im not going to have it rebuilt. If he checks and says the engine cant be repaired, i'll get a used one. And i have personally seen used trailblazer engines at salvage yards for around $350. U-Pull-It was i think around$200. So yeah. Im still in the i-dont-know-whats-going-to-happen-yet stage. I need it looked at and to hear the diagnosis and charge first...
Thanks gmcman. I spoke to mechanic and he says they replace the engine in situations like this. Going to have the truck towed in tomorrow if his quote is acceptable. So much for my new rims...smh
So, just spoke to my mechanic. Says for an engine with 80k on it....$2300! Ha! Not going to happen. Says if i get my own engine he'll install for $850. STILL not going to happen! Got another guy to talk to. Going to try to find him 2moro. Also got a good street mechanic i can talk to, also. If nothing gives, the truck is scrap. I'll have her towed to CT to my friend's yard and tear her down for parts...
$850 labour for swapping the engine in one of these is actually pretty good because of the axles and other stuff to deal with.
Here's my breakdown of cost for a similar project undertaken just months ago.
2005 TB 4.2L Engine with 83K Miles- $550
20 Hours Labor for R&R @ $60/hr- $1,200
Fluids, A/C Recharge, Intake Manifold Gaskets and a baseball cap I saw on eBay and had to have- $160
Just a little under a week without the Saablazer.
2005 TB 4.2L Engine with 83K Miles- $550
20 Hours Labor for R&R @ $60/hr- $1,200
Fluids, A/C Recharge, Intake Manifold Gaskets and a baseball cap I saw on eBay and had to have- $160
Just a little under a week without the Saablazer.
I hear you guys, but i NEVER pay those kind of prices. I just got in contact with a mechanic that did an engine swap for me many years ago for $600. For EVERYTHING. I'm waiting for him to get back to me now. If i dont like that price either, i'm going to find my street mechanic tomorrow and see what he'll charge to help me do it. and if THAT doesnt work out. I just may find a slightly better and newer Trailblazer and swap all my new/warranted/aftermarket parts.
Cheaper than that, I think that you'd be in the "I dunno where these go" spare parts territory.
Lol!! I live in NYC Mooseman. A deal is always around the corner. Most times you just got to know where, and be willing, to look. Remember...I payed $3000 for this vehicle in 2010...
You bought it at one of those dealers in Jersey didn't you? Those guys ALWAYS have some deals happening.
Not yet. Didnt make any moves yet. My time is short at the moment. Super busy with work. Bittersweet situation. Need my vehicle, but ALSO need this $$$. I should have some time in about a week or so...
I love crackhead prices. I can find them around louisville sometimes. Someone always owes someone money or its stolen.
YESSIRRR!!! I thought the truck was stolen too. The guy wanted me to bring him the $ on the street. I told him we doing EVERYTHING thru DMV. No exceptions. Turns out it was legit. AND he had to pay the bank $2k to sell it to me for $3k! He made $1k on the deal...
Another possibility is a broken gas cap , letting your gas tank evaporate 24/7 will cost you 150miles per tank assuming you tank up approx once every two weeks...