TB EXT LT 2006 4.2 Engine Starter Motor Power Rating

[far eastan]

hello everyone.
My car has recently become longer time for the engine starter to rotate.
Last week, the rotation was about to stop, and then the engine started.
There is no problem with the battery.


I decided to consider replacing the engine starter.

Before the purchase, I plan to clean the two wiring that leads to the starter motor.

However, I think it will be necessary to replace it someday.
The 4.2 engine seems to be different from the other models for the 06-07 starter.
I found many available part numbers, but the typical ones are:
06-07
ACDELCO 3371118
ACDELCO 3362065A
GM GENUINE 3231639
GM GENUINE 89017846

Whichever I use, it seems to be suitable for 4.2 4WD in 2006.

However, these were different in Power Rating.

2.0kw
1.7kw
1.4kw

Which one should I use?
Is there any important problem with the difference in Power Rating?
There were sites that needed to choose whether it was 4WD or RWD.
For example, is Power Rating 1.4 originally for RWD?

Also,In addition to cleaning the cable that leads to the starter, is there anything to check?
I think the starter itself will be grounded, but are there any other relevant wiring that needs to be inspected?
thank you very much.

 

[mrrsm]

You might be getting too close to *Hitting The "BUY" Button* for any Brand New Starter ... Before actually conducting the Basic Electrical Diagnostics on the Starter System..."Starting" with....

(1) Perform a Battery LOAD Test using an inexpensive Battery Load Tester...to STRESS TEST the Battery:

Amazon.com : battery load tester

(2) Performing a Voltage Drop Test (Using a DMM to Check for either any "Positive to Positive" or any "Negative to Negative" Voltage Potential DIFFERENCES... Looking for Hidden Corroded or Internally Broken Cable Wires inside of HIGH Amperage Battery Cables that have INCREASED RESISTANCE TO AMPERAGE FLOW) ... as per THIS Paul "Scanner" Danner's Training Video:

(3) Removing, Cleaning, and Applying a small Dollop of Dielectric Grease to the Ground Cable Eyelets and then Re-Attaching the Battery Ground Cables and ALL Grounds located along the Lower Driver's Side of the Engine Block. Clean ALL Electrical Contacts FIRST using CRC Electrical Cleaning Solvent:

Amazon.com: CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner -11 Wt Oz: Sports & Outdoors

Buy CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner -11 Wt Oz: Electrical Cleaners - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

(4) Checking the Starter Power Cable and Purple Solenoid Cable Connectors for Signs of Green Corrosion and following the same steps outlined in (2) above. DON'T FORGET TO GENTLY BUT FIRMLY TIGHTEN DOWN THE FASTENERS HOLDING THE CABLES TO THE STARTER CONTACTS!!!

 

[Mooseman]

I looked up the different brand starters on RockAuto and it was strange. The only one that shows 2KW is the brand new ACDelco 3371118. All others show 1.7KW, including the remanufactured GM GENUINE 3231639 and ACDELCO 3362065A. I think the ACDelco 3371118 is an upgraded version with higher KW and is the most expensive in the new category. I wouldn't bother with any of the remanufactured ones. I've had good luck with TYC. If you're limited or prefer ACDelco, I'd go with the 3371118.

 

[far eastan]

thank you.
(1)
The battery's ability check has been cleared.
(2)
I am currently trying to learn by watching videos for corrosion cables.
YouTube will translate the audio, but it takes time to translate the image, so it takes time.
At the same time, I will look for similar videos in my own language.
(3)
I cleaned the battery terminal and cable.

"All Grounds Located Along the Lower Driver's Side of the Engine Block"
I will start this work immediately.
I hope I find all earth points.
(4)
I will do this too.

thank you very much.

 

[far eastan]

thank you.

My place to live is a prefecture famous for winter cold and snow.
However, the starter had never had trouble in the cold a few months ago.
I am worried about the deterioration of the starter.
I would like to select parts at the same time while maintaining battery cables and other cables according to advice.


Thank you for telling me the difference in PR.
I knew it was an upgrade and I was convinced.

2.0 has power, but maybe the battery needs to be healthier than 1.7.

I was relieved to hear that TYC can be used.
Also, considering the shipping cost, the core cannot be returned, so 3371118 is cheaper than 3362065A.
If there is a problem with the parts, it will require extra time and money to return.
So the selection is gambling (laughs)
Thank you for watching the parts specifications.
thank you very much.

 

[JayArr]

2.0 has power, but maybe the battery needs to be healthier than 1.7.

No, batteries don't work that way. You need to factor in Time. The 1.7 starter will rotate under load for a longer time than the 2.0 on the same battery.

Most car batteries are around 100 Amp Hours. At 13.2 volts a 2.0kW starter should draw 151 amps. On a 100Amp hour battery it should "theoretically" run for 39.74 minutes (100/151*60)
A 1.7kW starter should "theoretically" run for 46 minutes.

In reality you can't drain a battery all the way down so those numbers will get derated.

Before I spent any money I would remove it, clean the wires, then disassemble the starter and clean and re-grease it and inspect the bearings. Then reassemble it and re-install it and see if that helps. Starters are magnetic and coils and magnets rarely "deteriorate" so if it's turning slowly it may be a mechanical problem like old contaminated grease or a $2 bad bearing that is easily fixed.

It could also be a problem with the engine that is making it hard for the starter to turn. A bad steering pump or water pump or alternator or AC compressor will put a terrible stress on a 2kW starter that the engine (100+ kW) will have no trouble with. Try removing all the belts on the front of the engine and see if the starter still turns slowly.

 

[mrrsm]

わかりました (Wakarimashita) about the problems of making English to Nippon Translations... Paul "Scanner" Danner's most important suggestion in that Video is to place one Digital Multi-Meter (DMM) Lead on the B+ Red Wire at the Positive Battery Post and the OTHER DMM Lead on the OTHER end of that same RED Positive Cable where it attaches to The Starter. This is a "POSITIVE TO POSITIVE" TEST.

The Starter's Metal Casement GROUNDS it to the Engine Block... and so this STILL requires a GOOD BLACK GROUND CABLE leading from the Battery Negative Post on over to the Left Side of the Engine Block in order to Complete the Circuit when Cranking The Engine Over.

Now.... After Turning the Ignition Key to the ON Position and while Pressing the Button on the Start Cable... Measure and Record the Voltage on that RED Cable in between the Two Ends of the RED Cable ... WHILE CRANKING OVER THE ENGINE.



This can be accomplished SOLO by using THIS Push Button Starter Cable so you can observe the DC Voltage as the Current is Flowing through the RED Positive Cable. The ONLY way to conduct a Voltage Drop Test...is when the CIRCUIT IS LOADED....(Engine Turning Over under the POWER of The Starter)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OPVYHZ4/?tag=gmtnation-20

Another *Trick* to eliminate the DRAG that certain Accessories might be placing on the Rotating Assembly Mass of the Engine...is to *Very Briefly*...Remove the Serpentine Belt... and with a Fully Charged Battery...attempt to Start the Engine and see if the Starter has the Strength in Amperage to do this...but at a Faster Pace. If the Engine Starts... only let it run ...without re-installing the Serpentine Belt... for around a Minute or so.

 

[far eastan]

Thank you for all the advice.
I also want to clean the starter.

>A Bad Steering Pump or Alternator or AC Compressor Will Put A Terrible Stress On Removing All the >Belts on the front of the engine and see if the Starter Still Turns Slowly.

A few years ago, I replaced the water pump, thermostat, tensioner, idler pulley, and belt.
However, steering pumps and AC compressors are at the time of the factory.
The alternator wanted to replace it, but various other things have been broken and have not been replaced yet.


I wanted to know if this stress test could be easily done.
I may be able to test it just by loosening the tensioner and removing one belt.

*Very Briefly Trick*
I will try it.
thank you.

 

[JayArr]

Do you have a "Clamp ON" dc ammeter? You could clamp onto the big red wire to the starter and crank the engine a few times to get a reading. Then slip the belt off and do it again and see if there is a big difference in the amount of current.

The trouble with current tests and voltage drop tests is that they don't tell you "why". Is the voltage drop and/or increased current because a bearing is bad in the starter or because the water pump is worn out. In the end these tests just sort of confirm there is a problem without giving you an indication of what or where it is.

A few years ago, I replaced the water pump, thermostat, tensioner, idler pulley, and belt.

Actually that would make me want to check them even more, not less.

Were the water pump, tensioner pulley and idler pulley OEM GM parts or did you try to save some money by purchasing less expensive aftermarket parts?

IMHO discounting an aftermarket part from the equation because it's only three years old would be a failure in your logic. I've had lots of aftermarket parts fail within a few years. That's why they cost so much less. The front hubs on my Escalade are only about three years old and need replacing because the last owner saved some $$ and bought the cheap parts. I'm not saying there is a problem with your parts, I'm just saying don't make the mistake of not checking them because they are recent installs.

 

[far eastan]

#7
I read the information you added.
Thank you very much.
Thanks to the detailed explanation, I can deepen my understanding.
I will read it many times and understand it correctly.

The starter is now in a good mood and yesterday was in great shape.

This week, I have to bring my car to the maintenance shop for vehicle inspection.
Before that, I will do the necessary inspections myself, so I have a lot to do.

Perhaps the starter maintenance may be after the car returns.
I hope it will not stop working just before the vehicle inspection.
thank you.

P.S.
Your Japanese is perfect!

 

[far eastan]

#9
thank you.
There is one cheap current meter with something like clothespin.
Let's use it for the cable connected to the starter.

I checked the parts I purchased earlier.
Everything was ACDELCO.
Only the belt was Bando.
I am carefully selecting parts because I can't do it easily, such as returning or exchanging defective products.
If it is difficult to exchange, I will choose the best one as possible.
I feel that your point is very correct.


When I got advice from before and fighted the abnormal noise when driving, I chose Timken for the hub (BCA seems to be good).
Thank you for all the suggestions and advice.
thank you very much.
I doubt even genuine.

 

[mrrsm]

Please Check Out... Post #8 on the subject of what "Cupric Oxide" (Copper Corrosion) can do to "FUBAR" an Electrical Circuit's Amperage Flow BECAUSE WHEN COPPER COMBINES WITH OXYGEN TO FORM CUPRIC OXIDE...ITS ELECTRICAL BEHAVIOR...CHANGES IT...INTO AN ELECTRICALLY RESISTANT DIELECTRIC SUBSTANCE....

THIS can be Very Confusing when Folks see that Bright, Beautiful GREEN CORROSION on an inside of ANY Really THICK Copper Battery Harness Cable and Think...

"So What... WHAT is the BFD Here, Bobby (The Big F*****G Deal) ... Who Cares...Really?"

Well... This IS a VERY BIG Deal because of The Principle of "Positive Thermal Co-Efficient" or PTC is at play here that manages to INCREASE RESISTANCE TO THE PASSAGE AND FLOW OF ELECTRIC CURRENT... and in the process... Converting that Electrical Potential...into HEAT. Watch The Next Linked Video in Post #8 of this Thread:

SOLVED! - Alternator voltage spiking after 3 replacements

With my 2012 Yukon, I'm getting voltage spikes as well as uneven voltage on moderate to heavy acceleration. My headlights will noticeably flicker when this happens and the voltage will spike to around 15.2-15.5V...almost like it's bumping a rev limiter at half that frequency. I did rinse my...

gmtnation.com

Sometimes, you can find out "What Module is actually getting WARM?" by using a FLIR (Forward Looking Infra-red) Camera in order to identify SERIOUS Electrical Resistance happening within Motors and Modules... without having to work on them or remove them and just replacing them.

Wakari Mas?

Also... THIS Diagram will clearly show you ALL of those Important Grounds that should be checked, cleaned, scrubbed up, apply some Dielectric Grease to prevent further Galvanic Corrosion in between the Steel Bolts and the Copper Eyelets on these Ground Connections:

 

[Mooseman]

I had my main ground wire break from the engine block when I was getting my engine mounts replaced. It had basically turned into green pus and prevented the starter from cranking, just a click. Definitely worth the look.

 

[far eastan]

For me, it is full of highly advanced information.
thank you very much.
There are some difficult parts, so I want to take time to digest.



I want to replace the engine mount.
Which ground was overlooked?
I want to be careful.
It may be better to do the mission mount at the same time.
However, various parts such as ATF coolers and large ATF PANs have already been purchased, but they are left because of high urgency problems.
It is unknown when it can be replaced.

The door switch is also in trouble.
Even if I open the car door, the room light may not light up.
If I move the latch with my finger, the light will be turned on, so the contact will be bad.
Everywhere is not a serious problem.
Still, I plan to take care of it.

Thank you for your time and effort for many people to teach me.
thank you very much.