Only getting 160 miles on 25gal tank
- Thread starter pcharm129
- Start date
If it was your original pcm you won't need a case unless you changed the crank sensor after the tuned pcm was installed.pcharm129 said:
When the motor is cold or after the roar stops, carefully take a rag and hold it against the smooth edge of the fan that's visible, with light pressure it should stop. When my fan clutch went out it would roar when started then it began to last longer, about a minute.pcharm129 said:
Above idle test should be taken between 2000 and 2500RPM'spcharm129 said:
He had mentioned he had two different PCM's, not sure if both had a CASE relearn.coolasice said:
PCharm, can you get some more Torque info for me?
I know you can't get a video, but maybe with someone elses cell you could but stills are fine. Load up a screen with small gauges, get the O2 sensors with graphs, knock retard on a dial gauge, STFT and LTFT on a graph...basically set it up to look like this.
When the engine is warmed up, get a screenshot at idle, then when you are driving at about a 30 MPH cruise, then at a 60 MPH cruise.
Watch the knock retard when you are taking off, it should go from 0 to maybe a few degrees of retard then return to 0, or just stay at 0, if it stays above 0 for an extended time that could be an issue.
The o2 sensor #1 should be up and down, more when driving than idling, the #2 sensor should have a flat line or mild sawtooth but the values are what I'm after.
This is a good start, and there's not much else to check but obviously something is way out of whack still.
Keep in mind your wheels and tires coupled with your gears, will likely drop your MPG's maybe 1-3 at hwy. Still, 7 MPG is not right.
Did you ever get the can of 44K?
Forgot to mention....change your values to fahrenheit.
Let me help you with that.gmcman said:
Fan clutch testing by mooseman
Figured a detailed write up would help.
So 14 is an improvement, albeit not great still. We have to be missing something so simple at this point.
I use 85 octane due to elevation and it works great!
Not E85 guys....85 octane and E85 are two totally different types of gasoline.
Not E85 guys....85 octane and E85 are two totally different types of gasoline.
Its not the original PCM. Never did relearn on it.coolasice said:
I'll get on it. And havent gotten the 44k yet but i will.gmcman said:
Yes...coolasice said:
I had a bad fan clutch a few years back. After i changed it, the new one went bad within a year. Changed it again under warranty. I believe that i tried to stop the fan after each change and it wasnt possible. The bad clutch was able to stop easily and spin backwards. I'll check though...
Check my sig for the link to how to test the fan. If it's impossible to stop it, it's locked up and would lower your MPG but you would know if it was with the jet engine noise. It's very distinctive. I would add that if you pull the fan relay and it's still impossible to stop it, it's
Let me guess, you used a Dorman made in Korea clutch? They are known to fail quickly.
Let me guess, you used a Dorman made in Korea clutch? They are known to fail quickly.
My apologies for the LONG delay. I had a lot going on and I also wasn't driving very often. Mostly street.
Hey gmcman. So, I learned that Knock Retard is not supported by my truck. But i configured everything else you asked for. I also didn't realize that the screenshot I took at 30mph did not go through. let me know if you need me to take another one. Or even if you need me to run the whole gamut again. I installed Track Recorder in Torque, but haven't yet figured out how to work it to record the screen. Here's the screenshots i have ...gmcman said:
Coolant temps look a bit low to me too. Can you run coolant temp as a graph instead of a gauge? That might help define the problem. If it is consistently under 190, then it is likely the thermostat. If it rises and falls, it is likely the sensor.
No service light. And yes, less than 80k. Cant remember if Delco or not. I have only put approx 30k miles on it since I bought it in 2010. It has 147k in total. If I'm not mistaken, I changed the sensors 2wice since I got it. Once when purchased, and then again when doing process of eliminations for this issue.gmcman said:
I don't think i've ever seen a thread here with failed injectors, or problems with dirty ones. I run techron through mine usually once every oil change. Techron is the only fuel additive I know that's recommended/Ok'ed by all mfg. I have had good luck with Lucas products too for another option. That O2 looks pretty lazy to me, trims should be as close to zero as possible. Yours actually look better than mine before I changed t-stat last week. Haven't rechecked mine since right after. I was still getting ok milage before t-stat. Wouldn't have known mine was bad had I not gotten a scan tool. Gauge was always straight up.pcharm129 said:
Was only running in the 180's though before and still got 15+ avg
44K is a fuel treatment, not oil just in case you aren't sure of that.pcharm129 said:
So you're going to chance the fact your intake valves are clean and injectors are clean? You stated the vacuum gauge had very slight fluctuations, this is caused mainly by intake valves not seating fully.
A can of 44K is about 25 bucks, how much do you spend on gas a week getting 9 MPG?
Sorry but I don't see the logic.
I'm sure there are far more positive testimonials to 44K than negative.
There's a chance anything can cause harm, I completely agree. Techron and 44K are different animals, 44K is once or twice a year, techron is for more frequent intervals.
I can't remember specifically all the different risks and issues people were addrerssing with the 44K. But out of everything I read, the scales were tipped heavily against. I do remember that there was a dealer that said he carries it but would NEVER personally use it himself. I already ran Seafoam through the vacuum system, and added it to the fuel tank. I've added Gumout FIC several times. I'm just not sure at the moment about 44K. It may change my mind in the future though.gmcman said:
Has anyone else here on the thread had any positive experiances with 44K???
Also, @gmcman... i watched this video, and my needle twitched about half this much. If that indicates Valve Guide wear, would that affect mileage?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZTa-hXn7Qs
This comes as a shock to me.pcharm129 said:
Doesn't necessarily mean worn valve guides, it indicates a vacuum leak. Could be the intake manifold bolts which you said you had a loose one but did you get all of them? You need to check with others but I think some intake manifolds developed cracks. Dirty valve seats from carbon in which the 44K would likely clean up. Could be exhaust valve seats but not generally the case.pcharm129 said:
Point is the needle should be ROCK STEADY, ZERO MOVEMENT. NONE. The only movement it should maybe have is very, very slight variations and steady slow movements as the throttle body opens and closes to control idle.
